Page 30 - foodservice news magazine Nov-Dec 2018
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DINING
A.
“Everyone crosses their fingers for an immediate, sustained success, but I was very aware it would be a long haul,” Bayad says. “With niche places, it takes time to carve out your little chunk of the world.”
Regardless which side of the fence people are from, the undisputed crowd-favourite is lechon, the Philippines’ famed, slow-roasted suckling pig with crisp, blistered skin, served at Rey’s Place on a platter with sweet Mang Tomas and sour soy-calamansi sauces. “It’s the dish we build our customer base on,” says Bayad, adding banana and jackfruit turon (deep-fried spring rolls) with ube (purple yam) parfait as another heart-stealer.
The operator, along with head chef Uriel Kilala and sous Nathaniel Madrangca, keep the line-up tight with just 14 seasonally changing dishes. “Large menus confuse people, and even more so for a new cuisine,” explains Bayad. Kitchen space limitations also play a role and made finding the well-matched duo a particular coup. “Uriel is really experienced, but came to Australia when he was six, while Nathaniel came here less than a year ago, so has a really strong grasp of the cuisine.”
For Rey’s Place – and Filipino food generally – Bayad’s ultimate goal is a rightful place in popular culture. “When we first started, our customers were about 95 per cent Filipino.” The restaurant is a hop, skip and jump from the Philippine Consulate and foot traffic often notice the spelling of Rey – named for his dad – with a Filipino ‘e’. Since then, the split’s shifted with a significant base of non-Filipino first-timers who return frequently for the mouth-watering flavours.
Bayad acknowledges it is early days, but all signs are pointing to success. Ten months is still new? “Everyone crosses their fingers for an immediate, sustained success, but I was very aware it would be a long haul,” he says. “With niche places, it takes time to carve out your little chunk of the world.” Bayad’s been around the block enough times to know the challenges small operators face and the dedication it takes to see it through.
With his heart set on driving Filipino food forward, he’s already hinting at his next Filipino venue, and speaks of other operators
with joints in the works – which couldn’t please him more. To him, competition begets diversity and eventually critical mass. Yes, it looks like Filipino food’s time is here at last.
A. Bayad behind the Rey’s Place bar. B. Signature dessert, turon with ube parfait. C. Slow roast suckling pig with crispy skin, sarsa and chilli-mansi dippings, and pipino at suka, cucumber in calmansi vinegar.
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