Page 30 - 2007/08 AMA Winter

peaks in the immediate vicini­ ty, sometimes making up to five first ascents in one day.
The expedition was out on the ground for 28 days and in that time we made a total of 34 ascents, 29 of which were first ascents. The nature of the routes varied enormously, as did the nature of the peaks. Some routes were straightforward PD snow plods summiting on rounded snow domes. There were interesting mixed ridges at AD which turned steep gen­ darmes, ending in small rocky
Ollie Noakes during the first ascent of 'The Fabulous Bakin.
summits. And a healthy mix of steep north faces and rock routes (VS/HVS and Alpine D) added to the fun. In terms of mountaineering, it was proba­ bly one of the hardest, but most rewarding trips I’ve been fortunate enough to go on. The weather was general­ ly fair, cloudless skies and low winds helped with navigation and exploration as did the 24 hour day light.
BOREAL ZENITH only scratched the surface of what might be possible in an area the size of Andrees Land,
mountains rear up in all direc­ tions, the majority unclimbed. The opportunity to climb new routes and make first ascents is not easy to find these days, but with a little imagination and a healthy dose of deter­ mination, it is still possible. If anyone out there is interested in planning their own trip to the remote mountains of north east Greenland and would like some advice, feel free to get in touch. Otherwise, keep your eyes on the AMA website for details of the next trip...