Page 11 - 2005 AMA Winter

Exercise Double Edged Dragon,
D uring June 2004 eight members of British Gurkhas Nepal took advantage of the fact they lived within a stones throw of
the Himalayas to undertake an adventure training expedition into the heart of the Solu Khumbu Region of Nepal. The aim of the trip was that over four weeks both Mera and Island Peaks, (at 6476m and 6189m respectively) would be climbed. To link these two peaks together would require the team to trek up through the Hongku Valley much of it at 5000m and above and then cross over the Amphu Laptsa Pass, at 5845m the most technical aspect of the trip.
By Andy Gooch
Soiu Khumbu, Nepal
Despite actually being based ‘in country' the various aspects of organising the trip caused the usual headaches from the start but due to the persever­ ance and hard work of the leader, Capt B Howarth QG Sigs and his assistant W01 M W Colclough REME the trip eventually got under way. To help ease the organisation and admin burden the trip was carried out through an estab­ lished Nepali Trekking firm, Summit Nepal Trekking.
The weekend before the trip started the team gathered together in Kathmandu, with 6 members being based in Kathmandu, 2 from Pokhara and 2 JSMEL(W) coming from the UK. During this time there was the inevitable packing and repacking of kit, some basic rope work and numerous briefs on topics ranging from cold weather injury to flora and fauna. We were also lucky enough to visit the CIWEC Clinic here in Kathmandu which is renowned for it advice and treatment for aliments encountered at altitude, (AMS, HACE, HAPE etc..) and the discussion that Dr B Basnat kindly chaired proved very useful and informative.
Anyone who has flown into Lukla will know that the flight is somewhat of a roller coaster with the final approach and landing having been likened to dive bombing American ships at Pearl Harbour. Having taken off once only to turn around 30min into the flight it was about 1000 that we boarded
the small 18 seater plane for our second attempt to get to Lukla. Most were slightly apprehensive, this feeling being heightened by the fact that four days previously the company we were travelling with lost a plane only 6 minutes out from Lukla in poor visibility with the sad loss of all 3 people on board.
All arrived safe and sound and after meeting our Sirdar, climbing sherpas, chef team and porters, (some 25 people) we set out walking south and away from the Himalayas we had come to climb! The reason? Acclimatisation. Although it would be possible to walking straight to Mera Peak in 4 or 5 days it would mean going over a 5000m + pass, the Zetra La so the first 9 days we spent slowly ascending to a height of 5000m by making a long dog leg and then walking up the Hinku Valley. Given the time of year it meant that the monsoon was on its way and that weather during this period was far from ideal with rain arriving most afternoons. Another problem with the rain is it brings out the leeches. Luckily we were only in leech country for a couple of days before climbing above them but sharing your washing water with 3 leeches In the morning is a disturbing experience.
As we climbed up the number of people encountered, none of them tourists, dwindled. There was, however, a meeting with the local Maoists
on day 5 who demanded a donation be made. Initially they demanded 3000 rupees each (approx £25) but after talking to them, explaining the trip was pre paid and we had little money they took 1000 rupees from each of the ‘white faces’. It is worth noting here that although the Maoists are present through out the hills and will ask/demand money off trekking groups it should by no means be a reason not to plan trips to Nepal. The amount asked for varies from area to area, depending on the local commanders but can almost invariably be brought down from their first demands. As to their policy, no harm has been done to any tourists and for usually no more than £10 per person a hassle free trip can be had.
rocky outcrop. You could only begin to imagine how cramped it would be at the height of the season and how fortunate we were to have the mountain to ourselves.
After a short night’s rest we were awoken at 0300 with tea and a compo breakfast and by 0415 where heading out into the darkness. One of the team, Nal Gurung had decided to stay behind because he was suffering from a bad headache and feeling the effects of the cold. He was almost joined by Tarquin Shipley, one of the instructors who had slept with his head downhill and was experiencing a thumping headache. However after standing up and allowing the blood to return down the length of his 6' 4” frame he felt better again. As we slowly climbed up the glacier the sun started to rise behind us and every
After an acclimatisation day at
4300m a further one was
carried out at a place called minute the views became
Khare at 4900m. This location
was only 200m below the Mera
Glacier so it gave the opportu­
nity to get onto the snow and
ice and practice various tech­
niques. It must be said that Everest, Lhotse, Makalu.
trying to teach people ice axe
arrests at 5000m when you’re
breathing out of your .... is
somewhat difficult. It was ing. The exception being however at an extremely having to cross a small
useful, if not essential day for
what was to come. By this time
people were starting to get
headaches and suffer from and across it. After about 5
other effects of AMS and as a
result and to aid acclimatisa­
tion a number of team
members had started to take a
course of diamox tablets. The
following day saw all climbing
onto the Mera Glacier and over
the Mera La in cloud and snow,
where in good conditions ahead reached the summit views of Kachenjunga way to ridge. This was relayed and the east are possible. After a the other team turned around
night at the base camp we
returned the following day to
the Mera and Glacier and
climbed up to the high camp at
around 5850m. The crossing
was relatively straight forward
with only 4 small crevasses to blocked by a very large negotiate. High camp itself is crevasse, which had opened on a small, somewhat desolate up a few years ago. On advice
more spectacular.
behind us spread
Oyu in the
Kachenjunga in the East taking in amongst other mountains.
Baruntse and Chamlang. Climbing up the glacier was straight forward but exhaust­
crevasse on a section of slope that was particularly steep and needed axe work to climb up
hours the second rope, having been informed the summit was over an hour away decided to head down since one of it members was suffering from the altitude quite badly. However 30 minutes later the first rope, only 5 minutes
and started to ascend again and half an hour later 9 team members were standing just below the summit. The Central Summit of Mera Peak was only 45m above but our way was
( ARMY MOUNTAINEER 9
1
The vista from Cho West to