Page 10 - 1994 AMA Summer

We paid off our porters and changed our loads to yak-cattle crosses called ‘dubchuck’. Rest day' involved a battle through the Saturday market which will cure any shopperholic in just twenty minutes, the meat stands have to be seen to be believed. A strong stomach is required to view the decapitated heads of a couple of buffalo. We visited the hospital at Kunde and our Sidar's house in the neighbouring village of Chuckung. The following day we were back on the trail with more rain and mist. We passed a number of yak trains, their bells giving waming of their coming, although timid these bison sized ani­ mals accidentally kill and wound several trekkers each year.
After crossing the Dudh kosi by a precarious wire, rope and slat wood suspension bridge we made the long and steady climb to the Tongbocke Monastery', the trees were a delightful tapestry' of orange, yellow, green and red. this was our highest point so far at 3.867 m. we managed to get a blessing from a Buddist monk for our climb on Island Peak, we were given a prayer scarf, an orange thread and rice to offer to Budda once on the sum m it
We continued onwards and upwards passing through Pangboche. Shomare. Periche and eventually camping by the massive Khumbu Glacier at Loboche. at last the monsoon had lifted and the weather was excellent. Our acclimatization walk up Kala Patar at 5.549 m began at four in the morning. Colin reluctantly turned back half w'ay up the Black Hill’ with severe chest pains, he was accompanied by Sherra Zambu one of our experienced Sherpa guides. Later in the day he descended to Penriche for a days rest at lower altitude. We were able to watch the sun rise from behind Everest, one of those magical moments which remain with you. Kala Patar sits in the shad­ ow of Pumori at the end of the Khumbu Valley and only 8 kilo­ metres from Everest. The views are spectacular. We slowly returned to camp where we rested after a brilliant day out. We moved the following morning to Dingboche where we got our first real view' of Island Peak at the end of the Imja Valley. At over 6,000 m this mountain is dwarfed by the 8,000 m walls of snow and ice of Lhotse and Lhotse Shar. Two days later we were at base camp at the foot of our target. We had a much needed rest day which we used to rebuild the memorial to two
RAF climbers and a Sherpa killed by an avalanche in October
“Lamma in a basket".
The summit ridge leading to Island Peak. 8
VKM\ MOl M UM I II
1989. W e also
groups. A final check on our crampons and ice axe straps and we were ready. We had decided on a two day climb, high camp was made on a well sheltered ledge to the left of the main gul- ley leading to the hanging glacier.
At 3.15 am we began our climb using head torches to light our way upwards through the gulley and up a precarious ridge. We reached the snow line at 6.30 am where we stopped to put cram­ pons on and rope up. As if by order the mist cleared to give us perfect views of the high peaks around us. We were now over the 6,000 m mark and the going became harder and harder. With less than 50% of the oxygen that there is at sea level we were stopping every twenty paces to suck at the thin and cold air. We successfully crossed the glacier and then 100 m above us the knife edge ridge led to the summit. The 100 m high snow and ice wall was a formidable barrier, we ascended with the aid of a fixed rope. It was one of the hardest climbs 1 have done and involved several stops before forcing front points in and slowly moving on.
From the top of the ice wall it was a 20 minute walk along the ridge and onto the summit. We all made it to the top, an excel­ lent feeling of achievement filled us all. We blasted off a few rolls of film before heading back down to base camp. Colin led the way back over the glacier and we cautiously jumped over the crevasses.
So it was over, we slowly walked down to Lukla and were pleased to be leaving as there were now hundreds of tourists and porters moving up to the big hills. We flew from Lukla which must be the most exciting airfield to take off from. We m anaged an hectic day in K athm andu before flying back to the concrete jungle of Hong Kong.
The expedition members would like to thank CBF and the SO PT in Hong Kong for their generous grants. And I would like to thank the AMA for their grants to both myself and LCpl Leslie.
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