Page 31 - 1994 AMA Summer

Five days in a tent in the storm was mind-blowing. It was desper­ ately cold and so noisy that you could hardly sleep even if you wanted to. The highlight of the day was to put all your clothes on, goggles and all, crawl out of the tent to clear the snow less it col­ lapsed with the weight of fresh snowfall. Mentally, but not physi­ cally tired we managed to move up to 11,000 feet after five days imprisonment. We met up with the four who had been trapped at 14,300 feet who had dropped down, being short of food and were heading for the 8,000 foot camp for replenishment.
The team came through the storm well. Several other teams were forced to retire and escaped down and away as soon as it had ended. We now planned for a push to the top again. In our pairs we moved up to 17,200' and established a camp. Four climbers were poised at 17,200' and 2 at 14,300'.
On the 18 May Nick Arding, LB and Gary Bryant left for a sum­ mit bid from the 17,200 feet camp. Although really cold, the sky was clear and the wind low. Six hours later they summitted, hav­ ing to wear full downsuits for the uppermost 1,000 feet.
On the same days Alistair Miller and Pat Parsons had moved up to join Chris Short at the 17,200 feet camp. Next day, while the sum- miteers rested, the next three headed to the top. Although excep­ tionally cold, conditions were crisp and clear. The first 1500 feet was steep, requiring some frontpointing and was still in the shade up to Denali Pass. Now the views opened up to the hitherto unseen northern side of the mountain as we emerged into the sunshine. Excitement and confidence were growing. The route now headed up a line of old fixed ropes and then over vast expanses of snow- fields and ridges towards the summit headwall. From the 17200 feet camp to the summit and back is just under 4 miles. The base of the steep summit headwall was reached by mid-afternoon at around 19500 feet. Every effort was needed to drag each foot up the final obstacle. Several steps... then a breath, several steps...
then a breath. At last all three of us topped the headwall and stood on a knife-edge snow ridge. There was the summit some 400 yards away. Teetering along the ridge, one foot either side, we moved towards the top. The views were breathtaking, everything was dwarfed by our height. One side of the ridge steeply dropped sev­ eral thousand feet with the Cassin ridge rising up in full view. Visibility was perfect. The top was reached. Elation! All our efforts had been worth it - the highest point in America. A good 20 minutes was spent on the top. Congratulations. Photographs. Appreciation of the outstanding arctic panorama. Returning to
17,200 feet the whole team were elated by our achievement, espe­ cially as we had seen several teams of strong mountaineers spurned by the conditions and retreat.
We moved down to 14.300 feet and then pushed strongly on down to the 7,200 feet aircraft pickup point. The weather was deterio­ rating, a storm was expected. Caught in heavy snowfall for 36 hours waiting for the aircraft, finally a small window of clear weather allowed us to escape and return to Talkeetna. The small Cessna aircraft came bouncing in onto the glacier. Engines still running we loaded madly. Two lifts and the team was away. For nearly a month all we had seen was snow, glaciers and mountains. As the aircraft came in to land on the tiny airstrip you could actu­ ally smell the bark and leaves of the trees, engine fumes, feel the moisture in the air and hear the birds singing.
Alcoholic celebration ensued. Beards were shaved, bodies washed and stomachs filled.
The team had hoped to go to Mount McKinley and achieve sever­ al routes. In the end it took all our experience and determination to reach the summit by the West Buttress route. Success was had with a 100% summit achievement. However we all realised that the mountain had dictated our success and without a small window of mild weather none of us would have been able to achieve our goal.
\l!\n VlOl INTAINEEK
LONE BUT NOT LONELY
The AGM at Capel Curig was a very friendly enjoyable time, circular route over the top and round via Gleann Beag and Gleann clambering around the local hills. We had a lovely day on the Mor to Croik. With an early start and late finish it would be a good Cameddau, but what a lot of people. Never were we out of sight of long summer’s day.
2 or 3 other groups and in places there were dozens in view. Now I
know why I climb in the Highlands; I can go all day and hardly see a soul. This Summer was not so good because the cloud base never lifted much above 2,000 feet in August. However 1took a leaf out of John Muston’s book and stayed low.
My first sortie was to have a look at Seana Braigh between Lairg and Ullapool. I began at Croik up the River Carron from Bonar Bridge. I knew the name was familiar but could not remember why. It was not until I arrived (there is a good parking spot) and had a look around the church, that I realised that Croik churchyard was where the 90 tenants of Glencalvie, just to the south, had spent a miserable time sheltering in May 1845 during the Clearances. Many of them scratched their names on the window panes of the church.
Such gloomy history could not dispel what was to be a splendid walk up the Strath Cuileannach to Strath Mulzie. 1only saw a shep­ herd and his 3 dogs and a pair of fisherman during the whole day. The area is being developed for forestry and at one point a huge, new road has been made across the moor. It looked strangely anom­ alous but in time will mellow as have its predecessors. The impor­ tant thing is that it is keeping the Highlands alive and working.
1retraced my steps having reached Corriemulzie Lodge and seen the way up to Seana Braigh. There is a good bothy further up the valley at Loch A Choire Mhoir which could be used to break up a
My second outing, and only accompanied one, was to Ben Wyvis which is a big saddleback of a mountain overlooking the Moray Firth. It is the sort of straightforward climb which is suitable for children with easy access from Garbat. There is a track which goes up the side of the Allt a Bhealaich Mhoir all the way to the south­ ern summit of An Cabar. All looked set for a good day as the cloud base steadily rose. However it stuck at 2,500 feet and we decided to split up. with the children and one adult returning down the track, while 2 of us finished the climb in very cold miserable cloud. I don’t think we would have bothered but my companion who, despite living in its shadow for 20 years had never climbed to the summit was keen to do so. With hindsight, of course, it was a very good day because the children learned that cloud is cold and disorientating (and somewhat frightening). Apart from 2 teenagers setting off as we descended, we saw no one all day.
My third walk was to Cam Kitty above Forres. I doubt that any member of the AMA has ever bothered to struggle across the grouse moors to reach its triangulation point. Its claim to fame is that in 1913 (?) the local landowners all met there to decide on their various estate boundaries. There are splendid views out over Findhom Bay to the Moray Firth to the north and the old Dava Moor railway, which ran from Forres to Grantown until the Beeching cuts, to the west. With no one to be seen, it was another lone but not lonely day.
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