Page 16 - 2006 AMA Summer

ARMY SPORT CLIMBING CHAMPS 2005
The chalk dust has just settled on this year's Army Sport Climbing Championships. The AMA returned to the Welsh International Climbing Centre
in South Wales using the now tried and tested two day format. One hundred and eight competitors traveled from Germany, Nl and most corners of the UK to take part in the 12th Championships.
Although many were attending
the competition for the first time there was also the regular band of AMA Sport Climbers. Sadly missing this year was Steve Blake who has recently retired from the Army. Steve had competed in every competition since 1995 and was Army Champion at least once and usually in the top three at most competitions. Hopefully Steve will return next year to contest the 'AMA retired' trophy.
The competition started at 0830 on the 5 May 05 with demonstrations of the six elimination routes. These had been masterly crafted by Rob Lamy and Andy Long. There was some initial concern as the first climbers appeared to cruise easily up the first four routes. The chain reaction had started and it would have been impossible to stop the competition and change the routes. However, there was
no need to worry, the fifth route soon started spitting climbers off. The double stepped overhang had two crux's and a crimpy finish.
This had the desired effect and produced a steady stream of swinging climbers.
During the day the competitors were also able to try the 12 problem bouldering circuit, next year this will also be part of the team competition. By 1800hrs all climbers had completed the six elimination routes. This gave the organizers the task of splitting the field into three categories: Elite, Open and for the first time Top Rope Open.
Day 2 started with a demo of the Elite semi final, Open semi final and Top Rope Open routes. The Top Rope route started easily up a gently overhanging wall, but then soon entered a set of sequenced moves that forced climbers to continually lean in opposite directions until a semi rest could be gained on the arête. The top third of the climb involved a long traverse that got steadily harder until a final hard move to reach the top was made. Only two competitors CpI Duxbury and OCdt McClusky managed to get to the top.
For the Open com p the wall was slightly steeper but again a very devious sequence of
moves forced climbers to keep changing direction on progressively smaller holds. Although only two managed to top out; Tpr “Sven” Stephenson and Maj Crossley McEwen, ten climbers went through to the final.
The Elite semi final was even steeper and harder. The route weaved its way up a corner then out onto a leaning wall. Fierce moves gained a unique “swiss roll" hold before moving back into the corner for a semi-rest. This was followed by a desperate traverse on tiny holds to the finishing pocket. Six climbers were able to top out and ten were selected for the final.
After the semi finals the Team Speed Climbing Competition took place. With 12 teams competing and the initial leaders from day 1, 35 Engr Regt, were only one place ahead of RMAS. They were followed closely by RMCS and then DCAE. The Speed relay was a simple event; each team had to complete four routes in the fastest time, no points for style or technique! Everything could have been won or lost on a badly timed lunge for a hold or the top. The surprise winners of the event were 17 Port & Maritime Regt with an amazingly fast time. Unfortunately their combined score was not enough to beat 35 Engr Regt who were second in the speed relay by 1 second. This means 35 Engr Regt are the new Army Team Champions.
After lunch the main finals took place. First was the Top Rope Final. This was between CpI Duxbury and OCdt McClusky. They climbed the Open eliminator on a top rope.
OCdt McClusky managed to climb two thirds of the route and just managed to beat CpI Duxbury.
Spectators watch every move.
14 ARMY MOUNTAINEER