Page 23 - 2006 AMA Summer

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Checking out the route.
everyone retreats within themselves “enjoying" there own climb. We take a few pictures and enjoy the stunning view and no mean sense of achievement. Everyone is fit and well, and the day’s toil is over. We can see almost our entire route. It is a wonderful place to be. As we cross the pass through a notch in the rock we feel as if the scenery, light and mood has changed. Someone commented it felt like a scene from Lord of the Rings.
The walk out is long and easy but the finish has a sting, we are tired, hot and thirsty but we climb on and reach our campsite. We build a fire, while some wash in the river and provide a meal for the biting flies. In true tradition we sit around the fire, slag each other off and tell tall tales. A quiz has been prepared; there are winners and bad losers in life! Much hot chocolate is quaffed. A wild, wild night!
A busy day! A minibus arrives on time (we are now taking this excellent service as standard) and we start a classic mountain pass journey that will transfer us
to the bottom of Pisco our next objective. The
bus is jammed ^
as we are giving locals a ride as well. The pass road is at times exciting or for some terrifying! We joke that this is the time we will meet the Grim Reaper when the driver skilfully hits a rock, smashing the suspension in the process.
The bus is no more. All this takes place with a fantastic drop to the valley floor and the wreck of a flattened bus and ten crosses to mark the dead. The crash site is only ten days old. It doesn’t take long to figure out what to do next, a truck on its way to market is our new lift. It has a sheep, a bag of guinea pigs and a toothless old man, as all proper market trucks should. We sit amongst the crops and bags and enjoy the random nature of the day. The rest of the day was spent climbing to Lake 69. This is a wonderful spot and has a group of very attractive girls draped as if readying themselves for a photo shoot over the rocks. We of course pay them no attention and look at the mountains. Leanne our only Female member is amazed at our maturity!
That night the stars are incredible, no man made light to spoil them. It is a privilege to be in the mountains.
A cold night leaves the tents frosty. Some of the team are tired; tomorrow is a rest day and will help recharge the batteries. Our climb to base reveals Pisco; the climbers focus on it and discuss the route they hope to take.
We have a refresher lesson on the SAT phone and discuss our communications plan and "actions on” in the event of an accident. W e drink our last brew before retreating to
the warmth of our sleeping bags.
A rest during the heat of the day.
A gentle start to the day with us looking like tramps from Down and Out in London and Paris, the only thing missing is the copies of The Big Issue.
The morning is spent training, crevasse drills and movement on the rope. We pack for the move to high camp. The weather looks stable, we are ready.
It is good to be moving and I am proud to see the whole team working to get us to the top. Half of the team who are not climbing help us with our load carry to high camp, this support saves us a days carry and is truly appreciated. The remaining pair cover the radio and SAT phone at base. The climb to high camp is two and half hours long and it is unpleasant crossing of the moraine lip and boulder field with a heavy load. Our campsite has the murkiest water we have had to filter. Every litre pumped
means taking it apart and cleaning
■ ft?
filter making a long job worse. Pitched next to us are some Americans. A short climb takes Neil and Gaz to 5009m and gives the climbers the chance to see the first part of the approach. Bed for 18 30hrs, we strengthen Anglo/USA relations by making them laugh with our high altitude farts.
We are awake by midnight, the Americans are excited and are due to leave before us. We doze as they prepare. 02 30hrs we start brewing and eating and last minute kit adjustments. We are expecting cold temperatures and dress accordingly. Eating at this time of day at this
height is hard work but must be done. 03 50hrs head torches on, last check and we are off. From the word go it is hard work and Ifor one feel sick. Forty minutes later we reach the glacier snout and gear up. I retch and regret forcing a flapjack and
breakfast down earlier, Ian helps with the more
awkward straps and buckles and I am
very grateful.
Alpine glow in the evening.
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 21