Page 18 - Simply Vegetables Autumn 2020

VARIETIES
As I noted earlier in this chapter there are many varieties of gooseberry of all shapes, sizes and colours. However, some can be quite difficult to grow so if you are only going to grow just two or three varieties you might want to choose any of the following:
Captivator produces large, sweet pinkish-red fruits which are superb eaten fresh. This variety is vigorous, mildew resistant and heavy cropping. Young plants and new shoots have thorns but become virtually thornless once mature.
Careless (AGM) is a popular variety with pale green fruits that gives heavy yields. It grows well on most soils but can be susceptible to mildew. When thinned berries can grow quite large which makes this an ideal variety for exhibitors.
Greenfinch (AGM) is an excellent mildew resistant variety that forms quite compact bushes. Early yields of bright green fruits and is excellent for cooking from the first picking.
Invicta (AGM) makes a vigorous and spreading plant that bears large, pale green berries suitable for dessert and culinary use. It gives high yields when grown as a bush or cordon and is largely resistant to mildew.
Hinnonmaki Red is a mildew resistant gooseberry which is ideal for organic regimes. It will produce heavy crops of large, sweet, red berries.
Hinnonmaki Yellow is mildew resistant yellow dessert gooseberry which is
ideal for organic regimes. It produces heavy crops of very large berries with an excellent, aromatic apricot-like flavour.
Leveller (AGM) is another gooseberry popular with exhibitors as it can grow very large after thinning. It is a yellow gooseberry which although slightly susceptible to mildew develops a very good eating flavour.
Whinham’s Industry (AGM) is a popular, red-fruited variety, which will grow quite happily in partial shade. It is a good choice for heavy soils but prone to mildew.
Wisley Gooseberry collection
double or triple stemmed but I personally prefer the U shaped double cordon. Train them up canes, wires or against a wall and they can often grow up to 1800mm (6 foot) in one season. On planting prune back cordon gooseberries back to about 300mm (1 foot) above ground level to a bud and for bush gooseberries prune back each branch similarly removing any shoots growing into the middle of the bush.
You may find growing standard gooseberries in pots or containers very interesting. Use a pot or container at least 350mm (14 inches) deep and wide and fill with a loam-based compost such as John Innes 3. Although you can easily create your own standard you might find it easier to buy one ready-made.
As far as annual pruning is concerned the important thing to note is that fruits form
on old wood. Using this information each year’s pruning can be planned. If growing cordons, each summer prune all side-shoots back to five leaves to encourage fruiting spurs to develop and tie the leading shoot
to the support as it grows. In winter, shorten the previous year’s growth on the main shoot back by a quarter to encourage new side-shoots. Shorten side-shoots pruned in summer to two or three buds.
If growing bush gooseberries you should use winter pruning to help form a balanced branch structure and keep the centre of
the bush open to make picking easier and discourage mildew. As fruits form on old wood and around the base of last year’s growth you should prune back the previous year’s growth to two buds and remove any shoots that are growing into the centre of the bush, and cut back leaders by one-third. Summer pruning isn’t necessarily required, but if time is available prune side-shoots back to five leaves in June. This will allow the sun to reach into the centre of the bush and help ripen the fruit.
During the first year of growth water your gooseberries well and particularly so in times of drought. You will need to net your gooseberries in areas where pigeon populations are large as they seem to have a real liking for these fruits! Recognising that thinning of the berries will have a fairly dramatic effect on the final crop I suggest
Gooseberry ‘Lord Derby’ bush
Gooseberry trained as globe
that you start thinning gooseberries during late May or early June, removing around half the crop which you can use for cooking. This will enable you to have two useful crops a season and allow the remaining fruits
more room to grow to a much larger size. This second crop will not only be of much larger berries but will allow them to develop a much sweeter and more intense taste. Of course, you could do what the Gooseberry Clubs do and grow just a few gooseberries per plant which may often attain the size of a small chicken egg! Make sure that during the ripening and swelling phase of gooseberries that they receive plenty of water. However, please note that if you water gooseberries after a drought and not during it you stand
a very high chance that the berries will split or burst. When harvesting gooseberries, particularly those grown as bushes, you will need to protect your hands and arms from the aforementioned sharp thorns.
Pests and diseases can be a real nuisance but hopefully managed. The first thing to look out for is gooseberry sawfly which can appear from late spring. This manifests itself as caterpillars which quickly munch their way through foliage. When you find them either squash them or move them next door! You may find birds such as bullfinches eat the fruit buds as they start developing and can easily strip a plant. If you find this happens
to you netting will be a useful solution. The previously mentioned American Gooseberry Mildew becomes easily visible and all you can do is remove all affected leaves and berries and hope that it doesn’t spread. You can help prevent this mildew and it is spread by either growing mildew resistant varieties or allowing plenty of air to spread through your plants by keeping centres of bushes open.
(AGM Award of Garden Merit)
18 Simply Vegetables