Page 26 - 2016 AMA Spring

MountKenya By Baz Whale
‘Boss, I have packed a set+ of wires and a full set of offset wires. 4 x 8ft slings and 1 x 16ft sling. 8 x extendable runners and 2 x short runners. A handful of Krabs and most of my
BD Cams. 2 x 50m 8.3mm half ropes. I have a lightweight down sleeping bag. A down jacket and a lightweight warm jacket. As well as a lightweight set of gortex and gloves! Also my approach shoes and boots. I have 2 x maps. A guide book and contacts in Kenya. I’m sure I am well over weight but don’t care. Will give you an update when I can. See you out there!’
Rewind a couple of months. When I found out 1 R Irish were supporting 2 Rifles Ex Askari Storm I was straight on the blower to Tony Dixon to facilitate our own trip climbing on Mount Kenya after the LF.
With no JSATFA in place we both knew we would have to put our hands in our own pocket. What the hell we were already in Kenya!! So whilst Tony was finishing the CALFEX off I busied myself with the frustrating task of trying to get local Beta on conditions and routes on the Mountain.
Jenny from the Mountain Club of Kenya (Facebook) was a great help with putting me in touch with Tom, Julian and Polly who run www.africanascents.com. A Mountaineering Company specialising in tailored trips to climb Bation and Nelion on Mount Kenya. Whilst indulging in local coffee Tom spent some time clarifying the route into the Park and also clarity on the climb itself and where to find the abseil stations. This was all to prove a valuable steer as we were entering unguided and there are many horror stories of climbers getting lost and some having an epic retreating off the Mountain.
A point to make at this stage is that the locals will tell you that you have to take guides and porters with you into the Park. Abiding by this we hired a porter to stay on side with the locals. The requirement to take porters and guides is nonsense but a useful commodity for carrying some of the heavier load.
A few days on Tony returned from the CALFEX and we got straight into packing kit well into the night. We had decided to walk in on the Naro Moru route. The quickest route in with most ascent and
climb only Nelion as we didn’t have axes and crampons for Batian as well. We got dropped off the following morning at the Mount Kenya National Park Gate and after a quick bluff to get a cheaper rate with the guards we began walking the first 9km. The Kenyans all tell you to go ‘Polepole’ which translates as slowly, slowly. This being due to the altitude normally kicking some westerner’s ass. So that is exactly what Tony and I did. The track through the rainforest allowed us to chew the fat and discuss our thoughts and concerns about the Mountain.
Early in the afternoon we arrived at the Metrological Centre (3,400 meters ish) more than glad that there was no more walking for the day. I can safely say we were both astonished to find the huts there well-furnished and that two of the well-known BATUK staff were there, Rick Lynch and Tam Lyndsey. They were attempting a fleeting trip trekking up to Point Lenana (4,979 meters) before both being posted. The point is they had a whole team supporting them. This Tony and I chuckled about until that evening we salivated in envy as they tucked into a candle lit three course fresh roast chicken dinner with Regimental music being played. Needless to say Tony and I scurried off and made the most of our ORP.
Awaken after a comfortable night’s sleep by monkeys dancing on the roof and attempting to break into our hut like the Hatton Garden thief’s we were up and eager. The second day marked the longest day and the most amount of ascent. So again ‘polepole’ we stepped off. The first hour was steep but initially chilly. A ground frost in the lush green rain forest served as a reminder of
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