Page 70 - Light Dragoons 2023 CREST

access point of the fixed lines. Having reached our previous cache, we discovered that some of our rations had been ravaged by birds. Stashing our approach shoes to put on our high-altitude boots, helmets, harnesses and ice axes in preparation to begin the ascent up the fixed lines. This was an exceptionally gruelling hour and a half up to camp two (6150m). Pure elation to see the yellow canvas glowing in the dis- tance, a huge achievement for the team to reach an altitude of 6000m.
Waking with a headache from a horrendous night’s sleep, we conducted our morn- ing statistics of recording SPO2 and Lake Louise scores prior to departing in rope teams on an acclimatisation equipment carry to camp three (6300m). After precari- ously stepping over crevasses, we reached camp three which was located significantly lower due to advice given from the Sherpas of a potential avalanche risk. Sherpas have a wealth of experience and knowledge; therefore, it would be foolish to disre- gard their advice. We attached to the fixed lines to reach an altitude of 6500m. This was the highest any of the team had been and a highlight of the entire trip. Another tough day operating on approximately 35% oxygen.
The team were on a rest day prior to advancing to camp three and subsequently
onto the summit. The weather had closed in therefore, confining us in our tents whilst the wind and snow battered the canvases. The day was spent hydrating and ensuring all equipment was ready for the main event.
Departing to camp three in two rope teams, we were moving at a comfortable pace. Being attached to Nathan, I felt tugging at the rope and looking backwards, identified that he was in distress. The team stopped so that Glenn could approach Nathan to assess the situation. After managing to calm him down, we continued our ascent. After a few meters, I felt another tug at the rope. This time, looking behind me, Nathan had collapsed. Maintaining a tight rope, Glenn rushed to Nathan’s assistance. He was struggling to control his breathing therefore, required emergency oxygen that Dorje prepared and administered. The two rope teams returned to camp two, shortly followed by Glenn and the Sherpas who extracted Nathan down. There, he was stabilised and monitored. Glenn, who was the chief instructor briefed the team that summitting the mountain was no longer the priority, and that the casualty’s safety was paramount. The aim was to ensure that Nathan was extracted off the moun- tain as quickly as possible as he was suf- fering from High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). HACE is a life-threatening con- dition if not treated immediately.
We began the descent to camp one; with Glenn and the casualty travelling closely behind. We untied from the system and attached to the fixed lines before care-
fully descending to Purgatory Point. With the assistance of the Sherpas, Glenn short-roped Nathan down the fixed lines. Progress for all was slow and exhaust- ing, which was due to the altitude and energy required to manoeuvre through the soft snow. Another member of the team became excessively fatigued therefore, he was assisted by the Sherpas and Mal off the fixed lines. We steadily descended over 1000m in elevation which turned out to be a massive day that took approximately nine hours to reach camp one.
After a well needed night of rest, both casu- alties were now stable, and Nathan’s condi- tion had improved significantly. Although we were all grateful to be down the moun- tain safely, there was a strong feeling of dis- appointment that today was supposed to be summit day of Putha Hiunchuli (7246m). Accepting our fate that we would not sum- mit as the weather closed in, we disman- tled camp one and began our descent back to base camp for the long trek back home. We thanked our support team for their hard work and commitment as the expe- dition would have not been possible with- out their efforts. The trek back to Juphal airport took seven days but after reports of bad weather, we were grounded and remained in a tea house for the evening before taking a flight to Kathmandu via Nepaljunji. After five weeks on expedition, the time had come to return to the U.K.
I am very grateful for the opportunity to participate on Ex Gauntlet Rise. This was an incredible experience, I was challenged and developed both physically and men- tally whilst on the expedition and thor- oughly enjoyed the journey. Summiting is a privilege when high-altitude moun- taineering and not always guaranteed, the mountain decides whether you get safe passage, and this was not our year. We all returned home safely, and we all came back as friends.
“The mountain decideds whether you climb or not. The art of mountaineering is knowing when to go, when to stay, and when to retreat.”
The Regimental Journal of The Light Dragoons
68
-Ed Viesturs-
SS