Page 14 - Army Mountaineer Winter 2022

GUESTWRITER
Laying out the 'Alpha' for airdrop
On hearing what had happened it was imperative that we tried to rescue Doug as soon as possible but time to quickly brew and consume a hot meal and to gather any equipment we might need was not time wasted. The weather had now turned against us with a cloud base at less than 500-feet, freezing, driving rain low down changing to sleet and snow as we ascended the glacier. Under all normal climbing conventions these were conditions in which to remain hulled down in a tent with a good book but we had a man to rescue.
At 80 degrees North in summer, daylight lasts for 24-hours every day so our 2300hrs start was not so foolish as it sounds. In 1972, GPS had not been invented. One navigated by map and compass but because of our proximity
to the Magnetic North Pole the compass swinging vaguely on its pivot was little more than a basis for discussion and a 1:250,000 scale map added little value to the situation. The Middle Fjord Glacier is some two miles wide with few recognisa- ble features and we soon found ourselves facing the rock walls on either side of the glacier. Back-tracking became a regular feature. Gore-Tex and similar breathable fabrics were not on the market in 1972 and our polyurethane proofed waterproofs
Reading the burial service
were waterproof – both ways! This meant that one’s sweat gradually built up inside the garment to soak one’s shirt etc. The only advantage was that it was warm ‘wet’ as opposed to the cold ‘wet’ of the falling snow or driving rain.
When we had been out for about nine hours, I began to debate in my mind how long I could risk the six lives of the rescue party versus the one of our casualty. We were young, fit and determined but even the best of us can ultimately succumb to hypothermia compounded by fatigue. I am a committed Christian, so put the problem to God in a quick prayer. Almost immediately I had a strong feeling that we should go on for another 25 minutes, not half an hour or any other round figure like that but 25 minutes precisely. We shouldered our rucksacks and after 25 minutes we came to an oddly shaped pillar of ice which we all recognised and from here it was easy to move to where
Ice bridges - a glacier's biggest hazard
Returning from the rescue
14 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER