Page 27 - Army Mountaineer Winter 2022

EXERCISE ITALIAN ODYSSEY
Iain McCrea, 42 Engineer Regiment (Geographic)
42 Engineer Regiment has developed somewhat of a tradition of visiting the Italian
Dolomites, with several expeditions to Canazei over the last 10 years, and with good reason. Canazei sits in the heart of the Dolomites and you are spoilt for choice, be it via ferrata, climbing (trad and sport) or mountaineering. What really makes this type of expedition stand out from the normal regimental adventurous training however, is the seemingly endless access to via ferrata (or Klettersteig in German speaking countries). But what is via ferrata?
Via ferrata (‘Iron Path’ in Italian) or Klet- tersteig (‘climbing path’ in German), is a method of protecting mountaineering and climbing routes, typically achieved with a series of steel cables secured to the rock with metal pins (stanchions). The cables are used for protection and as a handrail, often supplemented by metal staples for your feet and in particular on tricky section ladders. Simple examples of via ferrata has been around for centuries; however, they came to prominence during the First World War where the Austro-Hungarians and the Italians were embroiled in fierce battle in the Dolomites. Permanent ropes were fixed to the rock along with ladders to help the movement of troops in the mountains in order to site observation posts and gun positions. Many of these old WW1 routes have since been restored with steel cables replacing the original fixed ropes.
Over the last 40 years via ferrata has continued to grow in popularity as it is a relatively easy way to experience big exposure that is usually reserved for longer multi-pitch climbing routes. Via ferrata has
continued to spread across the Alps and there has been more development into sporting via ferrata routes as opposed to the more traditional alpine routes.
In recent years the equipment has progressed to increase safety and to accommodate a wider range of users. Before purpose made via ferrata lanyards became popular, climbers would use offcuts of dynamic rope attached to their harnesses with a normal HMS type carabiner at the end of each length of rope. Although this works, you really wouldn’t want to take any sort of fall on this system (although this setup is still being used every now and again). Modern “Y” type via ferrata lanyards are elasticated and also include an energy absorbing tape which will unravel when fallen on, in a similar fashion to a screamer quickdraw. Forces experienced during a via ferrata fall will often be much higher to
An alpine via ferrata
those experienced during a lead climbing fall due to the distance between the stanchions. Therefore, a proper lanyard is essential, not to mention that they will usually feature quick action carabiners, which make life a lot easier during the hundreds of times you will be clipping and unclipping during the day.
THE EXPEDITION
Spending 20 hours traveling through 4 countries in a minibus isn’t ideal but as day breaks on the winding road leading
Lagazuoi Tunnels
Italian Odyssey Group
Via ferrata steep ground
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