Page 31 - SV 3 2024

In previous articles I have noted that it is quite possible to grow all fruit plants and trees in pots or containers; however, to do this you do need to carefully prepare in the same way that you would prepare the open ground before planting out. Sadly, many people acquire a tree or plant and then just shove it in a pot or container without any thought and that usually ends up with the poor thing hardly surviving or perhaps dying.
So, let’s look at some basic facts with the exception of blueberries or strawberries always use John Innes 3 potting compost. Please do not even think about using garden soil, old or new growbag contents, peat or peat substitutes or even bags
of topsoil - you want a good prepared medium which John Innes 3 is. The container you use must be appropriate
to what you are planting - neither too big nor too small. I will discuss sizes later. It
is critical that whatever pot or container you use it has good drainage holes in it as it is essential that water is able to freely drain away after watering or rainfall and if this doesn’t happen the roots will quickly rot causing the plant or tree to die. This
is especially important for trees. And just as you would in open ground you need to stake fruit trees.
I’m going to start off with trees. You can plant cordon, bush and even espalier and fan trees or pots if you want to but it is important to recognise and understand that
you are going to have to water these pots or containers quite regularly and maybe even daily during the summer months. It is equally important to ensure that you don’t buy very dwarfing rootstocks for growing in pots or containers. For example, don’t buy apple trees on M9 rootstocks (try M26) or plums, apricots, cherries, peaches or nectarines on Pixy (try St. Julien A). The reason for this is that the pots or containers are going to do the root restriction bit and we don’t want a double whammy of the rootstock doing this as well. You can plant either bare rooted trees or potted trees both as you might for planting in open ground.
Pot or container size is important you mustn’t go for the biggest size you can get at the beginning as this will not force roots into growing a good structure for the pot. You need to increase pots in stages over the growing years. Initially I suggest that you plant in pots or containers that are between 300mm and 400mm (12 to 15 inches) in diameter. At the bottom of the pot add about a 50mm (2 inch) layer of stones, crocks or rubble to ensure
good drainage and then add your John Innes. Add a good handful of mycorrhizal granules into your backfill. As with planting in the open ground you will still need to stake your trees to prevent them rocking and damaging the roots. You will need to water your pots regularly in dry conditions as it is essential that the roots do not dry
out during the growing season. You cannot rely on rainfall for watering as this will invariably be insufficient. You may choose to add a drip watering system to your pots as this will certainly help when you are away from home and obviate the need for pot sitters!
You will need to feed your potted trees each year and I always recommend using blood, fish and bone or seaweed extract.
A good handful in early spring followed
by another good handful in early summer is just what the doctor ordered! You will also need to get fresh compost around the roots each year as feeding alone simply cannot provide all the nutrients to keep
the tree growing. For the first three or four years you can achieve this each winter by repotting the tree into a slightly larger pot or container. I suggest that you go no larger
Potting on fruit
plants and trees
GERRY EDWARDS FNVS
Simply Vegetables 31