Page 15 - 2020 AMA Winter

The days of pioneering exploration and first ascents of Scottish mountains have long been committed to the history books, with ‘new routes’ now principally the domain of esoteric climbers and winter climbing superheroes. But those who love the Scottish Highlands, still wander in awe of the vastness and the potential; following the scent of adventure, even if we’re no longer venturing into uncharted territory. Maybe it is something to do with the freedom we experience in the hills; the right to roam anywhere we please and ultimately to choose our own lines. And yet still most people don’t. The majority of walkers, mountaineers and hill runners take the most popular and well-docu- mented routes to our most recognised summits. While this approach takes away some of the uncertainty and risk involved, it also eats away at our self-reliance and starves our innate need for exploration.
So what happens then when you lock-up a nation of hill-lovers, cancelling events, courses and social gatherings across the world – and then set them loose all at once? This summer has seen an unprec- edented surge in interest in the Scottish mountains, with long queues appearing for the summit of Ben Nevis and multiple parties tackling some of the most remote Munros, every day of the week. There may have been a rise in newcomers to the sport, and a concomitant surge in rescues, littering and irresponsible wild-camping,buttherehasalsobeena new thirst for novelty and some exciting adventurous thinking.
Even in an era when there’s nothing new to climb, there are still ways to link-up routes and mountains in innovative com- binations.
ADVENTURES IN THE GLENCOE HILLS
In June this year, following lockdown here in Scotland, I decided to try a challenge I had been planning for a while – a ‘link up’ of the Six Ridges of Buachaille Etive Mor. The idea was based on the already popular challenge of climbing the all the ridges of Ben Nevis in a day. Joined by husband and climbing partner Ben Wallace (SIO, JSMTC Ballachulish), we set out from the bridge over the river Coupall. The planned route was aesthetically pleasing and offered plenty of mileage over high quality scrambling terrain:
• Lagangarbh Buttress (up)
• Great Gully Buttress (down)
• Broad Buttress (up),
• [Great Gully Buttress (down again)]
• North Buttress (up)
• Curved Ridge (down)
• Crowberry Ridge and Tower (up),
• Munro summit and return via Coire
na Tulaich
Knowing the area well, we scrambled all the ridges ‘solo’ but used a rope for the bottom section of Crowberry Ridge, which is exposed and was greasy at the bottom. The area makes for a great training ground for long routes in the Alps! My favourite ridge of the six is probably Lagangarbh Buttress due to the excellent slabby rock throughout.
There is something exciting about conceiving your own new mountain challenge and throwing down the gauntlet for others to follow. You simply can’t beat the views from this side of Buachaille Etive Mor and I got the feeling that this would be a link-up which would see some more visits in the near future. Indeed, the round
was repeated by notorious Scottish winter climber Tim Gomersall the following month (in just 3h04m07s!)
In July, I decided to put together something different; a new long-distance mountain round in the same area. Encircling the popular Munros of Glen Coe lie 6 remote and less frequented Corbetts. Rough and unrelenting these quieter hills command unrivalled views over Glen Coe, Glen Etive and Loch Leven. What they lack in height they make up for in challenge - steep and often pathless, they are easily underesti- mated! The route I designed started and finished at Signal Rock carpark in Glencoe and took in the summits of Meall Lighiche, Beinn Maol Chaluim, Stob Dubh, Beinn Mhic Chasgaig, Beinn a’Chrulaiste and Garbh Bheinn in that order.
The long undulating ridge of the Beinn Maol Chaluim is impressive and feels like it is luring you further and further away from Glen Coe. By the time I could see clearly into Glen Etive I was surprised to see a spectacular cloud inversion – thick white cloud filling the glen throughout its length!
Keri and Ben Wallace reach the bottom of Curved Ridge and now face only the climb up Crowberry Ridge to finish the Six Ridges of Buachaille Etive Mor
Cloud inversion in Glen Etive from the lower slopes of Beinn Maol Chaluim, the second Corbett on the Glen Coe Corbett Round
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