Page 24 - 2020 AMA Winter

MISCARTICLE
Crevasses on the Breithorn
but were pretty much resigned to having to walk back down to the valley. Moving together, we made the top, traversed along the ridge, headed down the gullies and faces of the descent, doubled along the paths back to the Plan..... and found we were down with an hour in hand! Result. Time for an over-priced coffee, coke and cake in the café. But when you are in the Alps, you just have to forget the prices; that was the mantra in the huts over the following days.
We made use of the one poorer weather day to head to Switzerland, which was still Covid-safe. We couldn’t afford to have to quarantine on our return, because Chris
Grutter Ridge on the Pelerins
was off on an op tour and I had ten days instructing in Dundonnell. So we headed for one of the most famous rock peaks in the Alps, the Salbitschjen. Chris had a hankering to do the West Ridge, a three star classic, but it is ED1 6b, and I didn’t think that I was up to that yet; there is no escape after half way, so I made him head for the equally classic South Ridge at D+ 5c. A night in the brilliant hut with an excellent meal, all served between plastic screens made us a lot poorer, and setting off early the next day we discovered that several teams had made an early start from the valley and got in front of us. The swine. We were moving fast and effectively though, and we soon got past them on
the absolutely immaculate granite. It really is the most amazing route; sustained on perfect rock. The summit pinnacle is another of those photo opportunities that can’t be missed; a sliver of orange granite leaning over at an angle of about 80 degrees, and unbolted, it is intimidat- ing but actually very easy. And has a free hanging abseil! Back down to the valley and the van, and a night sleeping next to a ‘green’ rubbish tip.
It was time for some ice and snow, and after some discussion we decided on the Weisshorn. Even without the hut being closed for refurbishment this is a big couple of days; with the hut out and
24 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER