Page 17 - 2011 AMA Summer

the move to high camp. It was clear that three members of the group would not be able to even attempt the climb so they would stay put in the village. Even so, a guide would still be required, not least to show the route but also to keep the ratios of instructors to climbers at 1:2 on the ropes, given Volcan Sajama’s technical difficulty classification.
The climb to the top would take three days; one to base camp, one to high camp and then a summit day. The now nine-man group all made it safely to high camp. After an anx- ious few hours sleep, the group woke at 0200 to attempt the peak. With 4hrs of climbing in the dark the teams were very pleased to see sunrise, although this did coincide with a field of penetentes – 1m high snow icicles which form during the summer months. Unsurprisingly the climb was extremely demanding and three individuals had to be taken back down to high camp by the guide. At 0800, six extremely tired indi- viduals summited. After a photo session, kept short by the low temperatures on the summit, the individuals were soon on their way back down.
With a well co-ordinated departure from the mountain, the teams moved from the summit via High and Base camps, back to Sajama village. The group then moved back to La Paz for a 48hr R&R period before travelling back to the UK. This hap- pened to coincide with the England versus Germany World Cup game – unfortunately that part of the trip was less good.
Despite only half of the group making it to the top of Volcan Sajama the expedition was hugely successful. With all mem- bers climbing a 5000m peak, nine climbing a 6000m peak and
Lt Somodi descending the North West ridge
six climbing a 6500m peak; it was testament to the individu- als’ grit and determination. The expedition certainly stretched comfort zones and everyone developed a number of the inherent soldiering qualities: teamwork, physical fitness and mental resilience.
On behalf of all members of the group we would like to thank our sponsors; Mabey and Johnson, the Berlin Infantry Brigade Memorial Trust Fund and Headquarters 5th Division. We would also like to thank the various personalities in the Sqn and Regt who supported the expedition from the off and without whose support the expedition would not have been possible.
Crossing the wet glacier on Janco Huyo
Hot springs with Nevado Sajama behind
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 15