Page 12 - AMA Summer 2023

GUESTWRITER
the political problems, your own health and fitness, outside dramas with other climbers and the hardest part of all, funding the expeditions. You are alone in this ever-growing sport, where becoming unique and standing apart from the crowd is becoming increasingly difficult, but for me mountaineering is when I feel most alive and truly, deeply happy, and so the hard work to get to the place I am has been beyond worth it.
Following K2 Winter, I stayed in Nepal for two months with Gelje, exploring the city and getting ready for my next expedition, Everest! It was finally happening, my first 8000m peak expedition and it was going to be the mountain I had dreamt of since I was 8-years-old. The adrenaline was running through my veins more and more as we approached our set off date. My training to that point in Nepal had consisted of gym work and running to the local temple and up its endless stairs multiple times until my legs felt like jelly. It was truly stunning to run to the temple in the early mornings and watch the sunrise above the hills of Kathmandu. I fell in love with Kathmandu and Nepal and its combination of natural and cultural beauty.
The Everest expedition had begun as we landed with the fixed wing into Lukla airport, on the edge of our seats of course, trying to get a view of the infamous landing strip. As you land at 2860m you realise that
it’s really game on, the air is already thin, the village life kicks in and you’re closer to Everest than ever before. It took us just under a week to trek into Everest Base Camp, the whole way was just a myriad of stunning views, wonderful cultural experiences and endless fun and laughter. But arriving at base camp and seeing the sea of tents perched before the giant, treacherous Khumbu Icefall was daunting. A knot tied in my stomach. We finally saw that popcorn field of danger and death staring right at us. The Khumbu Icefall is the most dangerous section of Everest due to its instability and movements that cause crevasses to open and ice blocks to fall, some the size of apartment buildings. Soon after, those initial nerves that had hit me were replaced with intense excitement and adrenaline as we gave a “Cheers’’ to our first night at base camp.
We completed our first rotation on Everest during the first couple of weeks, touching camp 3 at 7000m. It started from base camp at 2am. It’s hard to explain the feeling when you’re all standing, wearing your harness and holding your pole with your backpack on, knowing you’re about to walk for around 8 hours through the icefall. Everyone was quiet, the sounds of crampons scratching the rocks and harnesses clinking were the only sounds filling the air, the sounds of a climb beginning. Everyone has their head torch on but as you scan the team you can see the fear in each and everyone’s eyes.
Our rotation was successful and upon returning to base camp everyone was at ease and excited for the ultimate summit push, but this was now a waiting game. In total we waited around 30 days just at base camp for our summit weather window, this was the hardest part of the whole expedition. Every day you would perform the same routine, breakfast, relax, lunch, relax, dinner, drink. It was endless, until the very last possible week, the week of the 31st of May, when we got the green light from Everest that it was time. We retraced our steps all the way to camp 3 and headed on upwards to camp 4. Once passing camp 3 you start using supple- mentary oxygen. This is where it really gets tough, each step feels like you’ve just done a mini sprint, you’re out of breath but your muscles are strong, everything just feels like it’s in slow motion. We reached camp 4 (8000m), the start of the Death Zone, and all quickly moved into our tents to get as much food and rest as possible before the summit push in around 6 hours’ time. I remember eating a whole dehydrated meal, chicken fried rice, and feeling proud of myself as most people can’t even stomach a chocolate bar up there. The summit push was quite a blur, until that last moment, crossing the Hilary Step and reaching the next hilltop where we could finally see the summit of the highest mountain in the world. Everything in that moment froze for a split second as I soaked in the reality of what I had just achieved. I was moments away from standing on that summit, my life goal since I was 8-years- old. The sun was rising as we made those final few steps. Tears had filled my eyes so I couldn’t even see what I was doing, but eventually I composed myself and we took our summit photos. I called my parents on the satellite phone to tell them the good news, but I was barely able to string out a sentence. I was so emotional. It was an unforgettable moment, a golden nugget memory, that I will carry with me forever. The view of mountains as far as the eye could see, seemingly miles below you, were just incredible. I couldn’t have done it without my partner Gelje, who was with me every step of the way, looking out for me and motivating me with his cheeky smile and infectious laugh.
Sherpas really are the backbone of high-al- titude mountaineering in the Himalayas. They are the ones who fix the ropes, find the best route, place ladders, carry oxygen
With Dad on Mt Elbrus; our first of the seven summits
12 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER