Page 36 - AMA Summer 2023

MISCARTICLE
camping at altitude, the wind was kind, but the weather was getting colder. We spent the afternoon training in our crampons, amid a white out.
The following morning, crampons, and harnesses on, we trekked to High Camp. The route was a long bend, climbing in the snow gradually, taking care to focus on breathing and adjust our body to an ever-increasing height. High Camp, perched on the side of a rock face on an outcrop, with fantastic views of the Himalayas, was an incredible sight I hope to never forget. Kanchenjunga is visible to the east, Makalu and Cho-Oyu also, as well as the twin peaks of Ama Dablam, and finally Nuptse, Lhotse’s south face and the summit of Everest. The wind here picked up, reaching over 50mph. My tent, typically on the edge, received the worst of it. Non-stop, throughout the night. At 0130hrs, we got up, packed our kit and had breakfast. At 0245hrs, we began our climb to the summit.
The temperature was cold. I cannot even begin to explain just how cold it was. 18 years in the military has given me an idea of how cold cold can be, but this was a whole other level. The wind, gusting at over 50mph, picked up ice and snow and hurled it unrelentingly at our faces. My feet went completely numb at 0400hrs. My hands fought against the cold, happy for some respite when I could stop and flex my fingers. A long snake of head torches lit the path ahead. Groups of climbers, held together by rope and determination, climbing upwards towards a summit we couldn’t see. We lost two of our group at 6000m, the altitude affecting everyone differently. We pushed onwards, relieved when the sun came up, although its heating effects weren’t felt. This part of the route isn’t technical; however, any 30-degree incline will take its toll. We reached the
base of the summit at 0730hrs, rested, and attached ourselves to the fixed rope line to make the final ascent.
he view from the top was simply incredible. A complete panorama of the Himalayas. The wind battered us, the snow and ice too, but this view was worth it. Every ache, pain, and frozen limb.
The trek down to Khare was long, with a brief rest at High Camp for lunch. The view, I think, on the way back was as good as from the summit itself. This time however, we found ourselves walking directly towards that view of Everest, and for me, my goal. Every step I took, felt like another step closer to achieving my dream of standing on top of that mighty peak. We passed Hari and Krish on the way up, wished them luck and continued down to Khare.
After a rest day at Khare, we returned to Khote before climbing over two high passes to return to Lukla. Chetera La, at
Living on the edge
4150m, was a gruelling climb. However, the Zatrwa La Pass, at 4660m, was brutal and I was happy to finally descend to Lukla. Back at Lukla, we had time to reflect on our climb, rest and recuperate. For me, it was my time to consider my options going forward, and how I was going to get to Everest.
I decided that Manaslu would be my next target. I’ve set myself a date of September 2024 for the attempt, with Everest to follow. Funding will be an issue, and I’ve reached out to several charities including the Greater London Reserve Forces and Cadets Association. I also plan on approaching the Intelligence Corps Association and the Army Mountaineer- ing Association for any assistance they can provide. I know that competition is fierce, but I remain committed, knowing every penny I raise goes to Shout 85258, a mental health charity close to my heart.
You can follow my journey at @chrisclimbs2022
A moment to reflect
Sunrise and summits
36 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER