Page 21 - 2019 AMA Winter

Ridge route starting point at 1900m. Weather conditions were not forecast to be particular helpful on route to the Tete Rousse Hut (3167m) with heavy snow and strong winds expected. These conditions severely hampered progression. The route to Nid D’Aigle (2300m) was fairly simple with a small element of snow cover in places. However, the remaining part of the route was tough. Heavy snowfall and deep snow on the route made the ascent to Tete Rousse treacherous and tested all the expedition members, including the instructors. This route is normally fairly easy with no snow and takes 3-4hrs to ascend. The expedition achieved it in 6hrs displaying bags of courage, determina- tion and good mountaineering skills to navigate up the ridge in low visibility and blizzard conditions. We then hunkered down in the hut to enjoying a traditional alpine meal with a few other hardy groups had made the trip up to the hut (a large number of groups never made it due to the weather conditions).
Weather conditions did not improve with more heavy snowfall occurring overnight. Our BMG instructor and a few guides ventured a little further up the mountain to inspect the Grand Couloir. This is normally the most dangerous part of the mountain; where most deaths occur from rockfall. The Couloir was full of snow; a dangerous avalanche risk for anyone attempting to cross. The expedition leader in
conjunction with the instructors decided this was a risk not worth taking; and made the decision to head back down the mountain. This decision was vindicated by no other groups attempting to cross the Couloir either. This was a major disap- pointment but the right decision; getting down the mountain from Tete Rousse would be hard in itself in the deep snow and strong winds.
‘Huge avalanches thundering down the mountain due to the sheer amount of snow that had fallen overnight’
Kitting up and operating in 4 x rope teams, the expedition slowly made their way back down the ridge. Conditions were testing and really pushed each individual and instructor to ensure each team got down the mountain safely. Descending, the
ferocity of Mt Blanc and the surrounding ridges was made clear, as the slopes began to purge – huge avalanches thundering down the mountain due to the sheer amount of snow that had fallen overnight. This further focussed the expedition to get down the mountain safely back to Nid D’Aigle, the Belvedere cable car and a late booking at a Chamo- nix-based hotel.
With two days still available in the valley, the expedition conducted a day’s Via Ferrata activity. Many of the expedition had never attempted Via Ferrata before – a great activity high up on a rock face overlooking the valley. The expedition also attempted to plan a high ridge scrambling day up around the Aiguille du Midi (3800m) but was thwarted again by strong winds, which closed the cable car to the summit. Therefore, a day’s rock climbing was conducted in the valley before the
ARMY MOUNTAINEER / 21