Page 44 - 2019 AMA Winter

BOOKREVIEW
AMA BOOK REVIEWS
By Sean Mackey
QUEST INTO THE UNKNOWN
TONY HOWARD
Ilike to consider myself well informed and enjoy mountaineering history, but I must confess I had no idea this author
was so prolific until this book landed on my desk. That is more a reflection on me than on Tony Howard and his exploits. He has authored two books so far, his first ‘Troll Wall’ describes his first ascent of the Norwegian rock climbing test piece back in 1965, which has been described by Joe Brown as ‘one of the greatest ever achievements by British rock climbers’. If anyone remembers the now out-of-busi- ness mountaineering company ‘Troll’, famous for its harnesses and other pieces of climbing technology, then you will also know Howard’s other talent was in gear design.
This latest instalment has covered much more of his life with stories from the Himalaya, Middle East and Thailand to name a few. While none of these regions
sound that exotic compared to some of the expeditions we do today, they were monumental for their time. Most had never been visited before and were chosen on pictures and from film footage. If you have had the opportunity to climb in Oman, Jordan or Morocco it was only because this man went out and opened up these places as climbing venues in the 1960s. A true pioneer with a passion for new routing and exploring; This book describes one man’s search for fresh challenges in unknown places.
While I enjoyed the chapters I did find the book hard going. It is quite a sizeable piece of literature and rather than my usual habit of gorging on a book and then mourning its loss, I read it over a few months and found it easier to digest.
LAKES BOULDERING
GREG CHAPMAN
While I don’t consider myself a boulderer I wanted to become one after browsing through this lovingly written book. The level of detail, photos and descriptions have obviously been a labour of love for the author. This is a comprehensive and easy-to-use guide for the Lake District boulders.
The descriptions are clear and the pho- tographic topos are fantastic, leaving no doubt in the route finding. As the first of its kind to this region it is as big a leap forward as those early rockfax guidebooks to the peak district!
To say I am impressed is an understate- ment. While I don’t operate in the higher grades there is enough for everyone with over 3000 problems at 70 venues with grades from VO through to V13. As I am inherently lazy I particularly like the layout of book. The national park has been split down into sections and the book contains not only actual ordinance survey mapping, but best parking areas, campsites, pubs and shops. This really is the one stop shop if you’re planning a specific trip to the region or if you’re simply transiting through and want to stop off and stretch your legs for a quick boulder.
44 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER