Page 12 - 2000 AMA Millenium

• Take care crossing suspect slope - loosen rucsac (so it can be jet­ tisoned quickly) zip up all clothing, remove ice axe hand loop, cross one at a time.
• Consider using transcievers (OrtoVox or similar) on suspect slopes.
SKILLS
Skills required for the hill are navigation and walking skills, emergency and planned shelters and Snow and ice climbing techniques.
Winter mountain navigation and walking skills
Navigation key skills. Map reading and interpretation, (scales, con­ ventional signs, contours, envisage the 3-D picture from the map) uses of the compass iroamer, grid bearings, magnetic bearings, measurement of distance), estimation ot time (modify Naismith’s rule to suit yourself), estimation of distance (using paces and time interval), estimation of altitude (by height comparison and altim eters).
Walking skills: Easy access to navigational aids, back marker, person out in front, aiming-off, when to rope-up, effect of wind, procedure in white out, searching for a point, on your own or in a group.
Emergency shelters
• Excavated snow-cave is often most reliable form of shelter but try a variety of constructions using ordinary climbing equipment as tools, e.g. deadmen, helmet and axe.
• Practice construction in controlled conditions.
Planned shelters
• Snow caves and igloos are reliable.
• Allow two hours construction time.
• Life in a snow shelter is surprisingly warm, remember to
ventilate.
NEED
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B.D, D.M.M. CHARLET MOSER GRIVEL
I P L P T I 7L I L LOWE
BEAL TROLL
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Snow and Ice Climbing techniques
• Practice self-arrest from every conceivable position
• Practice kicking and cutting
steps up, down and across
slopes of all angles.
• Be aware of the limitations of
glissading (sitting and
standing).
• Develop good crampon
technique on easy, moderate and steep ground. D irect ascent, descent and travers­ ing.
• Be fam iliar w ith different snow anchors (deadmen, snow bollards, buried axes, snow stakes)
• Be fam iliar w ith ice anchors
(ice bollards, ice screws, threads in ice formations, picks of ice
climbing tools).
• Anchors on rock (spikes, threads, nuts, camming devices and
rock pegs) are more reliable than anchors on snow or ice.
• Roping-up may be needed on ridges, in high wind, near plateau
edges, gully climbing etc.
• Develop a reliable system of holding others, e.g. foot brake. • Build up experience gradually.
Above all enjoy the unique experience of Winter Mountaineering 'TRIPS'.
MOUNTAIN HARDWARE