Page 24 - 1995 Mountaineering Club Bulletin

After a sleepless night due to the altitude and the fact that
the bed was too small, we awoke at 0500 and had a quick break­ fast. i,The usual early Alpine start, 0100 - 0200, does not apply to difficult ridges as you need the light for climbing and route find­ ing). Several groups had already set off as we donned our gear, satd our farewells and best wishes to our new-found friends and we set off under the dim light of our head-torches. Our aim was to move together, roped as much as possible but only to belay on the difficult pitches. The first 200m was fairly level and easy but as the sun began to rise and the light became better we saw what our main enemy would be - namely a 1500m drop on our right down the North Face, but fortunately only a 700m drop on our left down to the Fiescher Glacier.
The ridge was split into 4 main areas of difficulty', all at AD but at altitude, in plastic boots and bergans and with the tremendous exposure it seemed a lot harder. The last and most difficult sec­ tion comes at the Grosserturm which takes a direct line with a bulbous overhanging finish however there was fixed rope protec­ tion. At this stage the weather began to close in and it began to snow. Keeping a watchful eye on the weather we pressed on and were rewarded as the squall only lasted half an hour, however it was obvious that the whole day would now be a race against the weather.
We had been climbing for 4 hours and only now did the peak come into view however we still had to cross 2 icy, corniced snow crests. The final few meters to the summit were among the most nerve-racking as we had to step out onto the Exit Snowfield actu­ ally on the North Wall - massive exposure. Once on the summit there was a quick photo stop with the White Ensign flying from an ice-axe before heading down. Most other parties went down the notorious West Flank however our plan was to descend the South Ridge and traverse to the Monchjoch hut. This was when it got difficult...
The initial drop off was extremely steep and the loose limestone rock and crisis snow meant that we had to do a series of abseils, often leaving valuable protection behind. Once on the saddle it
was obvious that the weather was closing in and we were com­ pletely committed to our route as there were no escape routes. The route consisted of a series of gendarmes separated by exposed corniced snow crests. By this stage we were getting very tired and morale was getting low as every time we conquered a difficult climbing problem another one was there to face us. Things could not get worse.... and then visibility closed in, snow began to fall and there was a thunderstorm all around us (so much for the favourable weather report).
Despite the odds we both realised that the only option was to press on as quickly yet safely as possible. Eventually after 12 hours on the mountain we reached the end of the ridge and crossed gratefully onto the Eigerjoch Glacier. After some crevasse dodging and a wet soggy bum-slide we finally made the Monchjoch Hut 3629m. Exhausted yet elated - never did a beer taste so fine. Our timing was also perfect... 5 minutes later and we would have missed scran. In the hut we got lots of strange looks from the tourists - was it because we were knarly con­ querors of the Eiger or was it just because we smelt? After scran we both collapsed to bed.... but yet again due to the altitude we could not sleep.
Unfortunately our plan to climb the Monch 4099m the next day had to be cancelled because the weather had completely closed in, again unforecast. So instead we dropped down to the Jungfraujoch Station 3454m and descended to Grindelwald. Returned to the campsite in the rain and spent the remaining time resting, recuperating and sorting out kit. As the evening closed in there was only one thing to do - a celebratory run- ashore.
On returning back to England, it was depressing to find out on our return that while we were battling with the weather in the Alps, the UK was having one of the hottest Summers on record! Never mind, at least we had climbed the Eiger.
Nobby Clark & Billy Bremnar
ANNUAL BULLETIN
Exercise Hotrock 95 Expedition Report
Exercise Hotrock 95 was a rock climbing expedition to Costa Blanca, Spain, undertaken by RNEC MC between the dates 15 and 29 April 1995. The expedition party consisted of 3 per­ sonnel.
During the initial planning for the Easter expedition it was decided that the location be sunny, have lots of climbing and be as cheap as possible. After much discussion Costa Blanca was chosen.
A series of articles in the rock climbing magazine “On the Edge” highlighted this region as an area of great opportunity.
Equipment for the expedition was provided entirely from per­ sonal and RNEC resources.
It was decided that the travel and accommodation costs were to
be kept as low as possible. A flight and self-catering accommo­ dation package with hire car was purchased from Lunn Poly, the accommodation being at the Michaelangelo Apartments, Benidorm. Benidorm was chosen as it is an ideal central position from which there is easy access to the outlying area where the majority of the crags are found. A hire car was therefore essen­ tial, although a 4 wheel drive version may have been more appro­ priate for some of the roads used!
The climbing in the Costa Blanca area is on limestone which can often be very sharp. The majority of the routes in the area are one pitch sport routes, although there are many multi-pitch “adven­ ture routes”. In some rarely climbed areas some bolts have dete­ riorated or are none existent so a light rack is recommended to avoid long run-outs. The team climbed together throughout the week and climbing pairs were changed regularly.
THE ROYAL NAVY & ROYAL MARINES MOUNTAINEERING CLUB 22