Page 27 - 1995 Mountaineering Club Bulletin

completed a very pleasant climb - HS 4b. Dave then easily second­ ed the route. The next route was Aqui no nos dejan Aparcar. This was somewhat harder then Speedy - perhaps HVS 5a in places. All managed the top without significant difficulty. Dave then led an unknown climb that was perhaps severe at the top. The final two routes were a little harder. An unnamed route at HVS 5a/b provid­ ed a very pleasant excursion, and the best route of the day - El Pixonet - was the last route. This went straight up the centre of a steep grey wall, up a line of cracks and weakness', and provided a thin and tenuous crux sequences at perhaps English 5c. Matt’s enthusiasm valve was fully off at this point, but Dave walked up afterwards with the help of his new Lasers (a kind of climbing shoe) and perhaps a hint of rope. A good day marred by sporadic show­ ers and a chilling wind, but the climbing was excellent.
Tuesday, and at Matt's insistence we returned to the increasingly urban crag of the Dalle D'Ola. The new road crept along the side of the hill as we watched. Soon there will be houses at the foot of the cliffand the routes will be lost forever. But as we write, they are still accessible. The first objective was the Blue Route, El 5b, described as ‘steady' by Chris Craggs. Matt launched himself up this using his new super sticky ‘Bamba' climbing slippers. Regrettably, due to unfamiliarity with this new footwear, the climbing proved some­ what tricky, and he lowered down to change into his trusty old ‘bal­ lets' to then dance back up, passing his previous high point with ease. But then, with the third bolt only inches away, he snatched defeat from the jaws of victory and fell back to earth - about 15-20ft. And did some minor damage to his ankle. Steven then tied in and warmed up for this very cold route (the sun had yet to get around the hill, and a stiff wind made this worse) finding it, as the guide book suggested steady. A heroic effort by Dave saw him arrive at the top complaining that he was fed up with ‘bunny hopping' up difficult routes. Then it was up to the other Pink Route - El 5b, described as ‘entertaining’ which it certainly proved to be, being quite hard for the grade. Matt did his passing imitation of a puff­ ing grampus as he followed up, which did not inspire Dave to attempt the route, a shame as it was the best on the cliff at its stan­ dard. Steve then went onto the Green Route E2 5c, another superb and sustained route with thankfully plenty of big shiny bolts! A difficult start onto the lower wall led to a resting point, from where a long thin section led to the upper, and very pleasant slab. Steve, regretfully, took a fall by being wrong footed. Matt did well to reach the third bolt, the start of the crux sequence.
Thursday 27 April, the plan Le Galleon - E2 5c at Toix South, the reality “Oh ****’’ remarked Matt, “seagulls!”. So it was Seagulls United - 3, RNEC MC - 0. We then walked back to Toix West for the days climbing. Matt attempted the right hand Red Route - El 5b. After some difficulty, Matt decided that he had taken enough leader falls in the last 4 days and did not really want another one. Matt was then lowered off, handing over to Steve who as usual ascended it with comparative ease. Both Dave and Matt followed. The Slabby Red Route (HVS 5a) and Dire Straights (HVS 5b) were the next two routes. They were gracefully led by Steve, and again Matt and Dave followed. Matt feeling relatively confident, decided to attempt his personal goal of the expedition, the Blue Route - a solid E l 5b. After taking the ‘4 wheel drive route’ to Dalle D’Ola, Matt sat at the bottom of the crag, attempting to convince himself that he could succeed. After half an hour of strenuous effort Matt arrived very surprised and very pleased at the top having complet­ ed the route cleanly. For Matt, it was an excellent way to end the day, and he remained on ‘Cloud 9’ for the remainder of the exped. Friday the last day of the exped, the last day for some Spanish rock.
Having spent the last two days doing relatively little (a rest day and 2*HVS and an El) Steve wanted to do a challenging route to round off the exped. Dave was totally climbed out, and Matt having com­ pleted his objective of a dream El lead the previous day, did not have any particular objective of his own. This all fitted together perfectly, and indicated that the route to do was the ever inspiring- ly named Green Route at Toix West, 150ft E2 5c in two pitches. A success on this would complete the trip in just the right manner. Accordingly Steve and Matt set off in mid-morning heading for the last time for the crag.
The first pitch reared up at an intimidating angle with little appar­ ent in the way of holds. The crux was very thin and a long reach was necessary for a good hold just below the belay. Matt ran up the lower section but was brought up short at the crux. The second pitch began with a series of tenuous moves on small holds up a steep wall. Then after some desperate smearing there was a relative romp to the second belay. Steve was very impressed - a two pitch E2 5c with no falls! Matt managed to overcome the crux sequence with the use of some judicious aiding, but then completed the remainder section in fine style. It was an excellent route with which to finish off the fortnight.
In the two weeks that we spent climbing at Costa Blanca, we mere­ ly scratched the surface of the amount of climbing available. For those chosen few that can climb 5b and above, this region has plen­ ty to offer, with many other crags waiting to be discovered. Costa Blanca is an excellent venue for climbing and is highly recom­ mended.
D J Townsend
AIMING FORTHETOP.J
Hittwafking Rockclimbing Mountaineering Camping Canoeing Sailing
Skiing
Adventure travel
OUTDOOR SHOP
The Outdoor Specialists
27-3! High Street Stony Stratford Milton Keynes Telephone (01908)568913
ANNUAL BULLETIN
THE ROYAL NAVY & ROYAL MARINES MOUNTAINEERING CLUB
25