Page 33 - 1995 Mountaineering Club Bulletin

our faces. Tomorrow an early start for an 800' VS La Gubia nor­ mal. A true mountain route. Everything started after pitch three the heavens opened and the sky got very dark, a distant rumble announced the arrival of the only rain since leaving Rosyth. The the climb started to buzz, I guess lightening does that! “Scotty shouted up I’m not sure we should climb in a thunder storm Kev”. “I won t tell if you don’t” was my reply. Truth was I could­ n't find a suitable abseil point and knowing that my next belay looked like a dry one I didn't mind sitting this out. I hope Scotty doesn't read this article otherwise I'm dead. As it turned out my belay had been manufactured by water and time so I got a tad damp (Justice). Who said divers are smarter than the average bear, they were wrong but we were still smiling. 'A quick tight­ ening of the Buffalos and we were off. After two hours we dried
out and the sun shone. Thirteen pitches later we reached the top of the only route I've ever done where there was no need to check the guide book, mind, the Spaniards had been kind enough to paint the route description on the rock at each belay point. I wonder if I should recommend this course of action to the BMC, NOT. A short stroll and we were back at the trusty steel.
25 June 1995. Found us back in Palma after two weeks of exer­ cise and a wee trip to Menorca. Just outside the dockyard gates there was a small (20') smelly crag frequented by the local nudist fraternity and the late night rubber burners. We had asked the Navigator if we could borrow his night sight, however he refused, upon the grounds that his wife was over and we might catch him at it. We bimbled three routes in amongst the sewage, all unnamed.
sion to climbing, something to do with his Granny, her bicycle and our standard of climbing, also when asked which way now he would reply “UP”. Yep cheers Mick, watch that loose rock.
Smelly 1 Smelly 2 Smelly off
VS 5a VS 4c HVS 5b
We set off totally wiped and a little sad at the thought of having to go back to sea, with Istanbul and Varna coming up. Varna was an excellent run with the average price of £10 for a whole days drinking and a large meal to boot. I must come back and do some climbing some time.
Alicante Next. Having hired a car through the liaison info we set of on the Saturday morning to a place called Sax. Interesting name, this town was about 36 miles away (the guide states 36 km). Having arrived at Sax we spent the next half hour trying to find the crag. Eventually we decided to ask the local ambulance station, they must know we thought. Two young attendants showed us on the map where we could find the crag, and off we set. I should have known that we were on a wild goose chase as soon as they showed us a crag near the very prominent castle, which I imagined, to be older than the guide book. We decided to abandon our Sax exped and try a place 36km in the other direc­ tion of Alicante. Sorry did I say 36km I meant 36 miles for all you mathematicians out there a total of 72 miles away. The cliff in question being named Toix, a few miles east of Benidorm. We started at Toix West and climbed,
The Blue Route HVS 5B*
So called due to the fact that all of the bolts have blue paint splat­ tered around them, disgusting. The heat became too much after this (45 deg C) and we had ran out of fluids. So off we set for some refreshment and shade. What we found was a local oasis in the form of a restaurant with a pool and a sprinkling of WOMEN. We stayed a while, unfortunately having been refused a meal (they were closing) we no longer had a reason for staying. So, we had to go and do a little climbing. We arrived at Toix East and climbed, wait for it
Yellow Route VS 5a Green Route HVS 5b1
Scotty managed his first leader fall of the trip. Rock boots + Glass = OFF. Unlucky mate get up and have another go. Scotty did well on his second attempt and fortunately only his ego was
26th, through an article in High we heard of a sea cliff near Santanyi on the South coast, Palma's answer to Swanage. Be aware all routes here are very stiff for the grade. However all bolts have recently been replaced and the rock is very sound for a sea cliff. Only one route followed.
Unnamed M 6a (Eng 4c) 40'
27th, we charged off into the mountains of Valdemosa to the most photographed route on the island. The ultimate in roadside crags, belay from the boot.
Unnamed Unnamed Right route
El 5c x 50' 3xoverhandsnexttoclassic El5cx50’ El 5b * 60’
If you should fance a midday feast there are a few bars/restuarants further along the road towards the sea, just keep on going until you reach the end of the road.
28th, we arranged to meet Mick Garrod, off of the Brecon, this morning at 0700. I thought that La Gubia routes were all long routes and with three climbing we would need time to reach the top. As things turned out our highest route of the day was a tiny 220'. Oops, sorry lads,besides yourboth too good looking to spend all day in bed. Ilied, though I did have an early night. Four routes were climbed that day. Mick brought a new dimen-
ANNUAL BULLETIN
THE ROYAL NAVY & ROYAL MARINES MOUNTAINEERING CLUB
31
Excaliber Left arete Unnamed Central route
HVS 5b* HVS 5a** VS 5a** El 5b*
29th, we left Mick, his Granny and her bicycle back at the ships and set off in the direction of Santanyi 20 miles and one wing mirror later we climbed five routes. Once again on our last day we met two Brits with a comprehensive guide for the area, which apparently came out after we left Blighty.
Ebamsa
Arista
Ebam M4b Boulder route
Cholesterol Party M6a
M4c (4b)40' M6a+(5c+) 40'
4b/a) 40' (5c)20'
(E2 5c) 70' ***