Page 36 - 1995 Mountaineering Club Bulletin

From Cayambe Town we followed a precarious dirt track for 2- hours until we arrived at the parking area directly outside the refuge. The accommodation was warm, clean and inviting (much better than our hotel!), but the landscape resembled a lunar land­ ing area, apart from the Glacier itself which loomed stark and magnificent at the rear of the hut.
The ascent in the vehicle was obviously a little too quick for some, as head-aches were common and few of us had appetites. Despite this we left at mid-moming to practise snow and ice techniques on the Glacier. The climb over the knoll at the rear of the hut was increadibly hard work before descending down to the lake at the base of the Glacier. It was evident that the mid­ day sun was intensely strong and the Factor 20 sun-block proved invaluable. As we fitted our crampons, the slight cloud base lift­ ed to reveal one of the Cayambe false summits which in itself looked spectacular and imposing. We opted to remain on the lower slopes to concerve energy and practice our drills, with the aim of attempting a recce of the higher slopes later that night when the conditions would be at their best. So, by 1600 we had retraced our steps and returned to the refuge. Dinner was a short and sober affair, as our appetites had not yet returned and every­ one was feeling tired from the day’s excursion. So again it was early to bed.
We awoke at 0400 as planned, only to find that the majority of the team were incapable of climbing due to severe head-aches and mild cases of nausea. Consequently, the plans were changed and we opted for a rest/acclimatisation day at the hut. However, it was the boredom that became more of a problem than the headaches by late afternoon. The only break in the monotony was the arrival of a group of some 30-or-so local Indians and their children, who stayed one night at the hut. They were a happy and colourful band who were more than willing to pose for pho­ tographs, although whatever they were cooking smelt horren­ dous and added more than one of us to the number suffering from nausea.
Having had plenty of rest the day before, we awoke at midnight with the intention of attempting the summit that night. We all agreed that we couldn’t stand another day of inactivity! We again made the hard slog up the knoll then descended to the lake where we fitted crampons and roped together in 2 groups. As we started our ascent on the glacier it became evident that we had not chosen a good night for the climb, as conditions were very mild, resulting in us climbing in just thermal tops! The ice was very soft under­ foot and soon we detected the sound of running water, indicative of the Glacier melting. We made slow progress through the end­ less maze of crevasses, being forced to skirt around gaping holes where we were expecting to find safe snow-bridges. As the first group reached the rock outcrop of Picos Jarrin (16,733 ft) at 0330 it became apparent that to continue further would put us in seri­ ous danger on the return journey as the glacier melted further. So the decision to return to the Refuge was made after the safe rest area we were using began to collapse beneath us, revealing a deep, dark crevass. The descent was precarious and slow, yet we were all short of breath by the time we reached the lake. As we continued on down to the hut the effects of the climb began to set in and a general feeling of tiredness overtook us all. This was short-lived as our spirits rose with the spectacular views of the sun-rise over Cotapaxi (our next target) in the distance.
Following a brief and again restless sleep, we agreed that our best course of action was to lose altitude and have a few acclimatisa­ tion/admin days in Otavalo before attempting Cotopaxi. The drive down the mountain track to Cayambe Town was even more challenging than going up, but by 1630 we had arrived in Otavalo and were booked into the Hotel Otavalo in the centre of town. The hotel was clean and spacious, and proved to be excellent value for money. After the luxury of a shower and a stroll around the town it was time for a visit to a Pizza parlour and have a run- ashore.
Having had an excellent breakfast in the hotel we went in search of Adventure! It took the form of a highly recommended horse­ back excursion into the foothills of Imbabura. The horses were well trained and generally safe, although they had their own ideas on when to walk, trot or gallop. Needless to say they spent most of the time galloping along, trying to get ahead of the horse next to them. The scenery was spectacular and the ride exhillarating, and apart from being saddle-sore was thoroughly enjoyed by all.
Having calmed down from our ride we drove to the Laguna de Cuicocha, a lake in an extict volcano(approx 3000m). It was time to do the tourist bits, so we had the customary boat trip around the lake and an excellent meal in the lakeside restaurant, before returning to Otavalo. Again the scenery was spectacular.
COTOPAXI
Our next objective was Cotopaxi, the highest active volcano in the world. We arrived at Cotapaxi National Park as the gates closed at 1500. It was a further one-hour drive through the park and up the mountain track before we reached the car park for the Refuge (approx 14,760 ft). We left the vehicles and in cloud and 50 mph winds, carried our rucksacks up the exhausting volcanic scree path to the Refuge at 15,750 ft. It was with relief that we arrived tired and hungry at the spacious and comfortable hut. Following a quick meal we retired early to bed, with the inten­ tion of attempting the summit later that night.
We awoke as agreed at midnight, only to look out on a snow­ storm and raging winds. With little knowledge of the route we decided to defer our attempt on the Glacier till the next night. Three other groups, each led by a local guide, attempted an ascent only to return within a few hours, having made little progress.
The day passed excruciatingly slowly, with only occasional breaks in the cloud giving brief glimpses of the Glacier. A recce team ventured onto the base of the Glacier during the day but returned disheartened at the conditions. However, as evening fell the weather appeared to improve as the wind abated, giving us hope of a chance at the summit. Again we retired early with plans to rise in the night.
Yet another midnight call as we prepared for the worst! Although conditions were still not ideal, the wind had dropped off to an acceptable level and it was only snowing gently. We decided that another day at the hut would achieve little, so we would give it a go.
As we made our way up the short slope to the base of the Glacier
ANNUAL BULLETIN
THE ROYAL NAVY & ROYAL MARINES MOUNTAINEERING CLUB
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