Page 40 - 1995 Mountaineering Club Bulletin

GIMMIGELA (“THE TWINS”)
The intention is to mount a Royal Navy and Royal Marines Mountaineering Club expedition to the Himalayas in the pre-monsoon season of 1997. The aim of the expedition is to make the first British ascent of GIMMIGELA 1, (“The Twins”) a 7350m peak in the Kanchenjunga area of East Nepal. Access to the area is restricted and only permissible with the inclusion of Nepalese nationals in the team. The precedent was set in 1985 by an AMA expedition to the same area.
The movement plan is to fly to KATHMANDU in March 1997. From Kathmandu, a road move takes the team to DHANKUTA, the road head where the approach march commences. A 2 week trek leads to PANGPEMA which is the base camp at 5139m. After the climb the reverse route will be taken with the option of flying from TAPLEJUNG to KATHMANDU. The team would return to the UK in June 1997.
The approach is a 2 week trek - the KANCHENJUNGA approach March, described by Pete Boardman as the most beautiful trek in the Himalayas. There are many other smaller peaks in the area, some unclimbed, it is still a very remote area close to the Tibetan and Sikkim boarders.
The team will comprise between 12-16 British Servicemen, pre­ dominantly from the Royal Navy and Royal Marines
Mountaineering Club, and an unspecified number of Nepalese nationals who may act as the high altitude porters. The expedi­ tion leader is Major P H Parsons RM who is a qualified Mountain Leader Officer. At this stage the expedition is purely moun­ taineering in scope with no plans for scientific or medical research. This may possibly change.
The summit of GIMMIGELA lies on the Nepalese/Sikkim bor­ der. It has only had one successful ascent, by the Japanese in October 1994 from the Sikkim side. The Nepalese Ministry of Tourism only made the mountain available for expeditions on 13 December 1994. It is a very attractive peak in the shadow of KANCHENJUNGA, the third highest mountain in the world.
The aim of the trip is to make the first ascent of Gimmigela from the Nepalese side. Looks like a hard climb in a fantastic area. It will be a Joint Exped but predominanetly from RNRMMC. Planned dates Mar-Jun 97. Looking for a few good men! Preferably with Himalayan experience but proven alpinists wel­ come. 12 climbers + Doc + base camp manager. Personal con­ tribution £600-£800.
DCI due to be published but in the meantime, anyone interested should contact Major Pat PARSONS, 2 I/C Cdo Log Regt RM.
ANNUAL BULLETIN
Food
Most staples are available in the market but the rice and pasta are disgusting, go for the egg noodles. Tinned fish is the main meat. Chocolate and sweets are expensive. We brought out some boil in the bag rations which were ideal on bivis.
Maps and Guides
We had the excellent guidebook by David Sharman “Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru". The maps (1930s) were poor but the guide makes up for this. Some of the descriptions are vague and common sense and routefinding ability are still required. The grades given in the book are for ideal conditions, we found several routes to be harder.
Medical
Despite purifying all our water with iodine tablets we all got diar­ rhoea to some extent. At the start of our trip to the Quebreda Ishinca both Andy and James suffered from altitude sickness. James for 5 days. We felt that an initial period of trekking would help with acclimatisation and this appeared to help Chris and Haggis. We took Diamox prophylactically when sleeping at alti­ tude and this appeared to help. Augmentin and Flagyl were also used on the trip.
Theft
Despite hearing many horror stories about theft in Peru we didn't
Proposal for a RNRMMC Himalayan Expedition in 1997
THE ROYAL NAVY & ROYAL MARINES MOUNTAINEERING CLUB
38
have too many problems apart from Andy whose pocket was expensively picked. Large expeditions employ basecamp guardians and they can be given a tip to keep an eye on your kit while you are climbing.
Costs Flight Insurance
1 sole=$2.23.5 soles = £1 Bus Lima-Huaraz Edweards Inn
Lunch
Dinner
Food and supplies for 40 man days costs 5 donkeys for 2 days cost
£684 £154 each
2 soles
10 soles each a night 3 soles
15-30 soles
240 soles
125 soles
£400 for 5 weeks was an adequate personal budget.
CONCLUSION
The Cordillera Blanca was an excellent location for a first expe­ dition and we left feeling we had achieved a great deal, especial­ ly compared to other groups. We are all keen to return but would perhaps start the trip with a trek to aid acclimatisation.
James Railt