Page 27 - Simply Veg 1 2024
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                                     Grapes 2019
  two leaves from the flower cluster of any branches that have flowers on allowing one flower cluster to develop per side branch for dessert grapes although you can allow more for wine grapes. Now tie
in each flowering side branch to a wire. Pinch out non flowering side branches to five leaves and pinch out any side shoots growing from side branches to one leaf. In December cut back the side branches from the main stem to one or two large, plump buds.
All of this training and pruning may seem complicated, but it is not I can assure you! The method is logical when thought about and quickly becomes second nature. Providing you follow the steps that I have outlined you will grow grapes successfully and it is most certainly worth all of the effort.
The vines will need some attention over the year to keep them in peak condition and must be watered thoroughly to ensure that sufficient water reaches all of the roots and fed with a good quality fertiliser. As the fruits develop, they need to be thinned to allow each grape the space it needs to grow to a good size - an operation usually carried out with long scissors with pointed ends, working upwards from the bottom of the bunch and removing the smaller ones.
Unfortunately, vines suffer from a number of pests, including aphids, red spider
Grapes ripening
mites and scale insects, so a careful look out needs to be kept - and prompt action taken - at the first sign of trouble. The only serious pest is likely to be red spider mite which causes leaves to fall after mottling and turning white. The odd fine web might be seen as well. To give an almost 100% control you can introduce a predatory mite (Phytoseiulus persimilis), and this
will be far more effective than any nasty chemicals. Be vigilant
warmer greenhouse will be earlier ripening but the real bonus of growing these fruits under glass or polythene, heated or not, is that peach leaf curl - which affects them both - ceases to exist. Grown under cover both peaches and nectarines can be grown in pots as bushes or indeed in the ground but the most attractive, productive and sensible way is to grow them as fan trees. Grown this way it is easy to manage regular pruning (which will maximise the fruiting as it is on the previous year’s wood the fruits will be produced) and thinning of fruitlets (which needs to be done to ensure the tree produces good size fruits and doesn’t over crop).
The trees can be planted directly in the soil although it is vital that the soil has been well dug over and plenty of organic matter incorporated. If growing in a lean-to greenhouse or polycover you can grow the fan against the wall or as a freestanding fan. Both of these methods will need a support structure of wires which the fan can be grown up and along. Keep the trees well-watered during the growing season
though and as soon as
you see any damage
introduce the predator
- if you leave it too late
control may become
very difficult. Good
ventilation and keeping
floors damped down
on hot days will help as these pests will
not thrive in humidity. The fruits can also
be prone to mildew so again be vigilant and remove fruits as soon as you see any mildew forming. With care and a little effort, however, even the smallest greenhouse can provide a few bunches of home-grown grapes. To help ensure good hygiene in the greenhouse remove all fallen leaves and fruits, bag them up and burn them.
So, we can now move on now to peaches and nectarines and these will do well in either cold or warm greenhouses. The real benefit of growing these in a
and after feeding with a good handful of blood, fish and bone mulch with good organic compost in March. As temperatures rise keep the covered area well-ventilated to maintain a good flow of air and if it is south facing it may be
best to shade the southerly side with paint on shading or a mechanical shade. On really hot days damp the floor down with a good slosh of water.
Generally, peaches and nectarines are self-fertile but growing them under cover they will benefit considerably from hand pollination. This is not a difficult task as all you need is a fine paintbrush (traditionally a rabbit’s tail!) and when the flowers are open carefully transfer pollen from one flower to another. This will need to be undertaken on a daily basis every day the flowers are open as pollen doesn’t all ripen
Unfortunately, vines suffer from a number of pests
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