Page 29 - 2014 AMA Summer

ARMY MOUNTAINEER 27
So far clothing has just been normal winter mountaineering clothing but at C3 with windchill at minus 35˚C it was time for a full down suit. With the wind hurling the loose snow in our faces, goggles were a must and to top it off, the oxygen mask. Pretty much covered from head to toe we were all quite cosy as it was just like a nice Cairngorm storm (minus the oxygen) and well prepared we watched individuals from other teams turnaround after only a short time in such extreme conditions. With the oxygen flowing and the ability to adjust the flow rate to our exertions, we were all feeling good as the wind tried to blow us off our feet. Progress was slow up the face below the top seracs due not only to the gradient, but our fixed rope was buried under the windblown snow. About 250m short of C4 the ropes were buried under the snow and further on had vanished under avalanche debris. Under the conditions it was unsafe to continue and the difficult decision to abandon our summit bid was made. We stayed for a few moments, gazing east to Everest and west to the Annapurna massif only a short distance away, but before we chilled and remained in the spot forever headed down.
Moving down to C3 we rapidly packed the tents anxious to be out of the freezing wind and headed with colossal sacks down to C2. After a night in C2 we continued down to BC collecting C1 en route. This meant a lot of equipment on our backs and the remainder towed, pulk like behind us in canoe bags so we could strip in the hill in one go.
At BC we began to load all the kit in barrels ready to return to Kathmandu and although extremely disappointed at not making summit, we were all hugely grateful that we returned safely and with all fingers and toes still attached. In the words of Geordie the expedition Sage, “Accept fate, it just wasn’t meant to be. That we tried in such testing conditions is testimony to each and every one of us, we should be humble enough to allow ourselves that much”.
1The expedition used Summit Oxygen (http://www.summitoxygen.com) and it proved very efficient, very reliable and very comfortable. Their new system is highly recommended and is being adopted by the major commercial companies (HIMEX etc). The expedition witnessed several other systems in use which appeared neither particularly reliable or efficient. In particular the Topout system was widely disliked by Sherpas and Climbers and from reports was unreliable.
WARNING The expedition used DOGTAG insurance. They have proved highly ineffectual in paying the helicopter company for the rescue of the two climbers. The air rescue companies in Nepal are now refusing to fly if the underwriting is by DOGTAG WARNING