Page 41 - 2014 AMA Summer

2 LANCS: Adventure training in spain
MARCH 2014
Ijoined the Army a little over two years ago. During this time I have had the opportunity to attend a Foundation(RCF) climbing course in Canada and subsequently gained the Rock Leader
Training(RLT) qualification at ‘Indefatigable’ (although I thought I had signed up for another climbing week not a single pitch instructors course!) Having been away for six months on Op HERRICK 18 I was greeted with the words, “Padre, we need you to run a rock climbing exped – we can’t find an officer to do it!” So I was launched into the mysterious world of JSATFAs, generic risk assessments and diplomatic clearance.
Exercise NORTHERN SPANISH LION was straightforward to plan. Held in the Costa Blanca region of Spain this March, the rewards far outweighed the time commitment, and the hassle of putting an exercise together with the battalion on post-tour leave. I have the Army to thank for rekindling my love for the mountains (I hardly climbed for seven years prior to joining). In short, it was brilliant fun.
I took three Rock Climbing Instructors and two Rock Climbing Leaders which enabled us to award up to six RCF qualifications, and everyone to multi-pitch climb at the same time without leaving anyone on the ground. Two from outside the unit, Noel and Ryan, had experience of the area we were climbing in and their expertise was invaluable. Major Dougie McGill at HQ Sp Comd(N) was also a mine of planning information. His Aide Memoire on completing the Joint Services Adventure Training Form ‘Alpha’ was comprehen- sive - and the advice: “Decide on your aims and source instructors with the right qualifications early and the rest should fall into place”.
We stayed at The Orange House in Finestrat, run by Rich and Sam Mayfield. They were brilliant hosts and understood Army groups well. The accommodation was plush by bunkhouse standards and we went full board (gaining authority to claim CILOR for cooked meals). Not having to shop and cater for ourselves gave us time for longer days climbing and to fit in the Foundation syllabus. No one told me it was only ten minutes by car to Benidorm though, or I would have included ‘Nightlife’ as part of my risk assessment!
A couple of observations are worth mentioning. The first occurred on our ‘big’ Grade 5 multi-pitch mountain day. Having climbed through an overhang, the instructor’s rope became trapped underneath the bulge and he could neither climb on, nor reverse the route. Any heroics at this stage could have made the situation a lot worse. As it was he simply ‘tied off’ to an anchor point, shouted to the two novices to stay on the belay stance where they were secured and waited for help. Climbers ‘passing through’ shortly afterwards freed the rope and they were able to finish the climb. I was extremely grateful for Noel’s measured and level-headed response (and yes, we would have gone back for you eventually. Honest!) Having small hand-held radios within the group proved invaluable in this situation.
The second is a more general observation on the perception of risk. Our soldiers have completed several tours both in Afghanistan and Iraq. As a result they assess danger in a completely different way from your ‘ordinary’ novice. One quote I heard in Canada, when a soldier was warned about ‘Rope Below’ was, “I’m not bothered, it’s not an RPG!” Climbers themselves as well as their instructors should be aware of this distortion if novices are not to put themselves into situations they can’t handle.
If there is one point to take away from this article, it is that anyone can organise an expedition with a little help and support from others. Would I do it again? Yes, definitely - I might even know what I’m doing the second time around! Thanks to CSgt Lee Magowan for twisting my arm in the first place.
Written by Philip Burrows - Padre 2 LANCS
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 39