Page 8 - 1995 AMA Spring

and below you. Walk up the wooded hillside - through a gate - and follow the undulating path for several hundred metres bypassing the very steep red wall; after a couple of hundred metres the steep south facing slabs are obvious on the left.
The Route.
Pitch 1 120 ft. Start: Just left of centre of the slab is a shallow left facing corner (Northumberland Wall E2 5C 5C). Start 10 feet left of corner heading for obvious vertical crackline, progress is made quickly for 20 ft until you reach an awkward pull up right into the crack (crux), protection is never far away to allay any nagging doubts and fears. The following 50 feet is a superb exercise in del­ icate footwork (the key to success at Diabeg). Suddenly the angle eases off enabling the climber to skip up the easy slabs, trending right, and belay on the grassy ledge using the in-situ slings.
The second pitch climbs the crackline directly above the belay. Surmount the overlap with amusement and continue up the crack with continual interest to the top and in-situ slings once more.
Descent.
By far and away the best descent is to abseil (double ropes neces­ sary). From the stance abseil approx 100 ft to a large grassy ledge (not your first stance), slings should be in place. If, however, you abhor abseiling, traverse right from the cliff top and cross a gully to gain a vague spur, keeping to its left side (looking down), with muddy scrambling for the last few feet.
Location.
1 mile south of Lower Diabeg, Torridon, Wester Ross, North West Scotland. Map Sheet 24 GR 801 595.
Route.
Route 2, Main Cliff. 220 ft. HVS 5a 5a. ****
Rock.
Excellent Lewisian Gneiss, just less than vertical requiring good footwork; trust the rock the friction is brilliant!
JSam94
This year’s Meet was held in the Breggaglia/Bernina Alps, a quiet (in comparison with Chamonix and Zermat) and acces­ sible area that boast’s some of the best granite climbing in the Alps. HIGH Magazine May and June Issue give excellent descrip­ tions). Over the two week period, 23 Jul - 6 Aug 94, a total of 46 military and 3 civilian AMA members attended the Meet.
As in previous years the Meet employed UK Alpine Guides, this year being Messrs Sandy Allen and Dave Walsh. Both did a good job on the first week introducing 15 Novices to the Alpine way of doing things. As a bonus this year enough funds were available to keep Sandy on for a further 5 days during which he took a party of three (RAFMA) up the N Ridge IV and a aspiring young Messner (2Lt Spike Cope) up the Cassin Route V+ on the Piz Badile.
Sgt Atkinson on the Easy Slabs on 1st Pitch.
Aspect.
South facing at an altitude of 300 ft, quick drying after showers, but may weep after prolonged rain.
Rack.
A normal rack should suffice with the exception of taking a couple of extra small to medium friends\camalots. Additionally, it may be worth taking some tat in case the in-situ slings look a bit aged.
Campina.
The nearest campsite is in Torridon next to the Youth Hostel; very cheap with all the facilities. The nearest social establishment is the Loch Torridon Hotel 2km away on the Shieldaig road.
Bibliography.
Rock Climbing in Scotland by Kevin Howett. Northern Highlands Vol 1 by the SMC.
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ARMY MOUNTAINEER
Meet Leader on NW Ridge, Castello.