Page 36 - ALG Issue 3 2023

biodiversity
No dig for
allotments
There are two aspects of no dig, which is not a complicated process.
1. Leave soil undisturbed, as much as is
practical. You don’t even need to fork
it.
2. Feedsoilinhabitantswithorganic
matter on the surface. This maintains fertility, drainage, and aeration. You, your soil, and your plants all benefit.
TEN BONUSES OF NO DIG:
These observations are all based on my 40 years of experience, and the experience of others who have found similar:
1. Fewer weeds grow once you have mulched and exhausted the existing perennial weeds. See below.
2. Youneedtowaterless,thanksto there being less evaporation from exposed soil.
3. Water drains away more easily,
and you can access ground in wet weather. This is a big advantage in wet springs when we want to be planting and cannot afford to waste time.
4. Plantscansupportthemselves better, with their roots in soil which has a firm and yet open structure.
5. Nutrientsupplyinthesoiliswell organised by the mycelial network so you need to feed less, if at all. I do not use feed or fertilisers, only compost. It’s cheaper!
6. Forthesameamountoffoodoutput, you need less compost compared to dug soil.
7. Other inputs are less; for example, I use no slug pellets. Undisturbed soil can better maintain a population of predators to pests, such as ground beetles which eat slug eggs.
8. Forsuccessionplantingsinthe summer, preparation work is almost zero and the process is very rapid.
9. Increased soil health means that rotation becomes less important, and you have more options about what to grow where.
10. You find no mud sticking to your boots!
PRODUCTIVITY:
For 16 years I have run a two-bed, dig / no dig trial. Each bed receives the same amount of compost and grows the same plants.
I measure and record all the harvests, which we take at the same time from each bed. Results are that the no dig bed has given 10% more food. This is from the same amount of compost, and with less time needed.
One reason for this is that no carbon is lost from cultivation. Undisturbed, the soil life increases plant roots’ ability to find food and moisture and the no dig bed outperforms in dry summers.
WHEN TO START NO DIG:
I have created no dig beds in every month of the year, and they always work from day one. My favourite time is from November to March. It is quicker and easier, and one has more time to do it. Then you are free to plant in early spring.
However, you can make a new bed on weeds, or surface mulch previously dug soil – even in freezing weather!
In dry weather it’s worth watering soil first, and water any cardboard you use as well.
ARE ALL SOIL TYPES SUITABLE?
No dig can be used on any soil, including heavy clay. If the clay is growing weeds, you do not need to fork or loosen because soil structure is there already. Soil does not need to be loose for plants to grow, and they do better in firm soil. Firm does not mean the soil is compacted.
The only time I recommend initial forking to loosen soil, is after builders have caused soil compaction around new houses or perhaps on new allotment sites where farmers have been damaging soil with heavy tractors.
Light and sandy soil needs extra compost, to hold moisture and food.
DO I NEED RAISED BEDS?
I advise that you save money buying wood, which is absolutely not a
No dig can be used on any soil, including heavy clay.
HOW MUCH GROUND IS GOOD FOR STARTING NO DIG?
For beginners, the best option is to start small with just a few beds of 1.2m width. Paths work well when 40cm, no wider. Using a smaller area will concentrate your time and resources and make management easier. I recommend using a fair amount of compost to start with, and that is more feasible on smaller areas of land.
If this feels like too little a growing area, it is important to remember that you are creating extremely fertile conditions and therefore need less space to grow the same amount of food.
Few families will need a full-size allotment based on this approach. For example, my no dig trial bed of 1.5 x 5m has grown over 100kg of food every year since 2013. That is more than a tonne in 10 years, with just two wheelbarrows of compost every December as the only input.
requirement of good gardening. You can still use an approach with beds and paths, just they are not bordered with wooden sides.
Wood can bring problems, because decaying wood provides damp pockets of decomposing material on the insides of raised beds. These are perfect hiding
36 Allotment and Leisure Gardener