Page 27 - 2010 AMA Autumn

complete we returned back to the Sierra De Toix, Far Oeste and concentrated on La Roja Una, Asom Broso, Costilla and Bernd. The climbing was progressing well with Michael Stoker finding that he was extending his range movement considerably. Michael had been in a vehicle that had been hit by an Improvised Explosive Device (IED) and has extensive burns to his body. The Physio was very impressed but his work after climbing was increasing daily.
It was also decided that a couple of guys who had found the rock shoes were not suitable for their feet should have the chance to purchase some from a local climbing shop. We were lucky enough to find the last 2 pairs of Size 12 (canoes) rock shoes and the expedition fund helped out with the costs.
Day 4 Thursday 11 Mar 10
There was still sun to be had on the 4th day and some of the guys coming on quicker than others it was decided to split the group in two. Sierra De Toix was again the preferred rock to work on since if the groups needed to discuss anything they could be easily join up again. Half the group were going to tackle Toix Placa while the others were going to be given an introduction into lead climbing on Oche fixe, La roja seis and La roja tres.
Michael Stoker introducing his body to lead climbing
As with most novice climbers there was a little uncertainty when it came to lead climbing. One of the members whose main aim of the expedition was to get over his fear of heights found this day extremely difficult to come to terms with, so much so that it was decided he would not be able to complete his RCP. This was a real shame since there was nothing physically wrong with him but more of a mental block that prevented his progress.
At the end of the day and after discussions with both Dr and Physio we decided the next day would in a different area which would hopefully have easier access to the rocks.
Day 5 Friday 12 Mar 10
Friday again started with some training videos and a quick check of the local weather showed that the temperatures were on the increase even though the nights were still chilly. Echo Valley was the agreed rock climbing area, the roads are very close to the rocks and although Paul Findlay found some of the tracks very nar- row it took half the time to get to the base of the climbs as it did at Sierra De Tiox.
This day proved very successful for Kev Juka, who while on adven- ture training in Canada had fallen of a horse and broken his back and pelvis. He now requires a walking stick and has trouble extend and flexing his right leg. As he had already climbed before his acci- dent most of the climbing came naturally.
Echo Valley gave an opportunity to do some Trad as well as Sport climbing with solid bolts in for those that did not have the confi- dence to hang of gear that they had put in. Big Bootie, Little Bootie and The Wasp where all climbed.
The day finished about 1630hrs due to the weather closing in and the tired limbs of some of the rehabilitees. Andy Wareham the Physio also needed more time to work on the injuries.
Kev Juka taking it easy
Day 6
Saturday 13 Mar 10
After discussions with the Physio it was decided the Paul Findlay needed to have a rest day and the rest would finish at the latest 1500hrs. Since Echo Valley was such a success we drove to the same location and more routes in the Castillo area. The progress was very good and with 4 people attaining their RCP grade. Chris Campbell also gave a good presentation on what he had learnt in his time as a mountain rescuer. This gave a great insight as to what problems you can come across on the rocks and how it was pos- sible to remove someone safely.
We left the rock at 1500hrs and manage to get back to the accom- modation and see some of the 6 nations. Planning for Sunday was determined by the abilities and health state of the rehabilitees. For those that wanted to the Puig Campana would be attempted, while others would go on a cultural visit to Valencia and those left would rest ahead of the next couple of days climbing.
Figure 6 Michael Stoker belays for Ian Blanks
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