Page 20 - Walking Back Through Time

ture and prominent landmarks including a lofty clock tower and 12th century cathedral.
The larger places allow an opportunity to recharge my batteries at a cafe and chance to replenish supplies for the day. Drifting back into the countryside I enjoy the sight of red squirrels dancing between autumnal leaves as they gather fallen nuts from the road. The day passes quickly owing to a later than usual start and it is dark by the time I reach Saint Sebastien, so pitch a tent just a few km beyond the town at a small park.
Day 9 Saint Sebastien to L'Aigle - 56km
Rising at 6am I decamp quickly and set off in wet, windy conditions which prevail initially, though by the time I reach the lovely town of Conches-en-Ouche (16km) the sun shines brightly as if a Summer's day. I spend my meal break beneath the castle ruin which is a peaceful loca- tion and pleasant contrast to the bustle of larger towns. The journey is a constant cycle of grandeur and rusticity; often capturing views of Nor- man churches and their elegant bell towers that satisfy a traveller's sub- lime curiosity and thirst for adventure. Each village is merely a sub-challenge within the daily itinerary and I am usually rewarded with much-needed coffee breaks to rejuvenate and absorb the journey's mo- mentum.
Throughout the afternoon the countryside continues to evoke a great sense of rural isolation celebrated by forest and native fauna. Approach- ing La Neuve-Lyre I find a dead adder lying in the roadside, and later I see some huge toads which had also been crushed by the speeding traf- fic. Stopping a further 12km at L’Aigle I buy goods with a view setting up camp for the night. On locating my next route at the end of town I pitch my tent on the rough ground above the carriageway.
Day 10 L'Aigle to Belleme - 50km
Decamping at 7am, in saturated in dew, I make my way along the quiet- er D930 as far as the next town (10km) Les Apres. A coffee brings me to life as today's adventure becomes a slow hack beside large expanses of forest broken by sparse communities culminating at Mortagne-au Perche at 3pm – 30km completed.