Page 12 - 1994 Mountaineering Club Review

Gari Jenkins and Paul Hart left UK, Stanstead on the 11 August 1994, flying Romania Air, via Bucharest to Delhi, India.
We arrive in Delhi light-headed with jet-lag and the remains of an alcohol induced headache, (five hours spent in the transit lounge of Bucharest airport would drive anyone to drink!). We are obliged to finalise details of the expedi­ tion with the IMF. As this should have all been completed prior to our arrival we are not overly impressed we become even less impressed when we are required to stay overnight in Delhi as it transpires our Liaison Officer (LO) is not ready to proceed.
All clim bing expeditions to India require registration with the Indian M ountaineering Federation, this can be found in Delhi at Benito Juarez Road, Anand Niketan, New Delhi-110021. A fee is payable in advance of permission being given to climb and a LO being appointed. (It is the concern of the expe­ dition to equip the LO adequately so that he can perform his duties).
On the morning of the 12 August 1994 we finally depart Delhi for Manali by taxi. N ot cheapest m ethod, and far from comfortable with the quantity of kit we are carrying, however we want to arrive in Batal as early as possible to build in acclimatisation time to our fair­ ly hectic program. After only a short time on the road we are aware that the most dangerous phase of the whole expedition is likely to be this journey - it appears that right of way goes to the vehicle with the biggest horn. A plethora of accidents confirm our worst fears and we settle back and wait to become just another unfortunate Indian road statistic!
We arrive at Batal, having met the third member of the expedition, some four days later. The delay is due to prob­ lems with the Liaison Officer (LO) and not an intended break in the journey. The problems arise due to our require­ ment to equip him for the expedition to the same standards as the rest of the team, this has been done, but completely inadequately, by Adrian. However, the blames does not lie completely with the expedition leader. The LO arrived with­ out any personal equipm ent whatsoever,
The Camp below Shigri Parbat.
and in consideration of his size 5 feet, it is unlikely that any expedition without forewarning could have supplied him with footwear to suit! After much wran­ gling Gari, Bob and myself leave the LO and make our way to Batal over the Rohtung Pass (12,000 ft) by hired jeep.
Between Himachal Pradesh (India) and China there exists a single road, which follows the course of the Chadra River. This river is sourced at Chandra Tal (Lake) high on the border. The road is little more than a dirt track liable to rock fall, subsidence and collapse. In its lower regions, where it lies adjacent to the river, it is due to severe flooding. As the road enters and exits the Chandra valley via two high passes, it is open for limited periods only, usually from May to late September, before the passes are closed by snow. Travel on the road is both dangerous and highly uncomfortable. Batal lies some 150 km along this road from Manali
(The Chandra River has never been kayaked and has great potential for future canoeing expeditions).
Arrival at Batal coincides with the initial effects of altitude - headache, nau­ sea and lack of breath! Here, we are first introduced to the senior porter and horseman, Sada. After a very uncomfort­ able overnight respite at Batal, we depart for the expedition Base Camp some 10 km along the valley. The horses carry
much of our equipment, but due to our lack of acclimatisation, both Gari and I are extremely slow. We are fortunate in looking particularly ill while passing some local goat-herders, their sympathy extends to a very welcome cup of tea despite the goat milk used. We make a particularly impressive crossing of a swollen tributary of the Chandra, using only a stretch of wire, a karabiner, and a sling-Stallone, eat your heart out!
The entrance to the Barri Shigri Glacier lies on the Soumem side of the Chandra River, it is necessary therefore, to cross the river at Batal and then dou­ ble back on the road to reach the entrance on foot. In the course of doing this it is likely one will encounter many of the tributaries that feed the Chandra. Despite their appearance these streams are extremely dangerous. They are fed by the glacial melt water from high on the mountains, are extremely cold and extremely powerful. Crossing of the streams is recommended in the early m orning before they reach full strength. However, due to the number of lives that have been lost during attempted cross­ ings of these tributaries, the ‘high-line’ method is recommended, A safety rope should always be used.
Arrival in Base camp coincides with pretty awful weather and so Gari and I take the opportunity to rest and try to recuperate.
ANNUAL REVIEW
The 1994 British Barri Shigri Expedition
by Paul Hart (based on the expedition diary)
THE ROYAL NAVY & ROYAL MARINES MOUNTAINEERING CLUB
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