Page 27 - 1994 Mountaineering Club Review

ANNUAL REVIEW
The Alpine Club
T'flP A Ini TIP C lllh *S 0n^ based mountaineering club catering specifically for those who climb in the
Xlit iXipillv VjlUU Alps and the Greater Ranges ofthe world.
It was founded in 1857 for “the promotion of good fellowship among mountaineers, of mountain climbing, and mountain explo­ ration, throughout the world, and of better knowledge of the mountains through literature, science and art”. Throughout its exis­ tence the Club has included in its membership most of the leading British mountaineers of each generation, and now has members in more than 30 countries. Membership includes climbers of all abilities and most active climbers are qualified to join.
The Alpine Club promotes its aims through an active programme of climbing meets, lectures and publications, and through the maintenance of a unique library and archives. The library is staffed by a full-time librarian and is one of the most comprehensive col­ lections of mountaineering literature in the world with over 25,000 books, journals, guidebooks and expedition reports. In addition the Club’s archives comprise a unique collection of literature, letters and artifacts which record the history of mountaineering. The Club is based in Charlotte Street on the edge of the City of London. The premises contain a lecture hall, the library, offices, archive and a real ale bar.
There are three levels of membership:
Full Membership
Aspirant Membership
ACG Membership -
Candidates should be competent alpine climbers who show a continuing interest in mountaineering. The normal requirement is the completion of at least 20 respectable alpine ascents over at least 3 seasons, or their equivalent in other regions. Other qualifications in the form of contributions to mountain literature, science or art may also be taken into account
This category is for climbers who currently lack the experience for Full Membership, but are expected to qualify in due course. They should normally have at least one alpine season.
This is a section of the Alpine Club which caters for active climbers with a record of ascents of hard alpine routes.
The Honorary Secretary has applications forms for those who may be interested and can advise as to Club members who can be approached to act as proposer/seconder.
Guidebook Review
Lundy (1994) by Gary Gibson and Paul Harrison £12.95. Published by the Climber's Club. Plastic Covers, 280 pages, Photographs in black and white and colour.
The Club has a long association with Lundy and climbing there is an “experience”. Although there are climbs below VS they are
well scattered and the descents are generally awkward with some being serious. Therefore to get the most out of a visit you need
to be climbing at least Severe, preferably VS. On my four trips (the fifth was aborted when the Landing Craft was swamped) there has always been the chance of being stranded on the Island and twice I have been “rescued” by RN helicopter when the ferry didn’t
sail. The new guidebook is very attractive and captures the spirit of climbing on the Island.
Previous Lundy guidebooks were published by the RNRMMC. The new book is about twice as long as the last one, reflecting the large number of new routes put up over the last ten years. There are 17 photo diagrams and 15 clear maps which will help you to find your way around. One of the problems with Lundy is that most of the routes cannot be seen from the tops so good maps are essential especially on a first visit. The photos do not, fortunately, only concentrate on the epic hard routes; there are some excellent shots of the classic Very Severes.
Similarly, while many of the new routes are well up in the E grades, there are about 80 in the HVS/VS grade with another 30 or so in easier grades. Most of the new routes with quality stars are up in the Epic grades. Surely there must be some high quality routes still to be found in the lower grades? The classic Devil’s Slide area (the Slide was first climbed by our own Admiral Lawder in 1961) is well covered and there are 8 stars on the slab alone. Satan’s Slip remains El and is “a lonely lead” on the big 5a pitch. “Star bag­ gers” will be pleased to see that quality stars now appear in the index.
There are quite a few grade changes, many without explanation, even on the classic routes. For example Shark goes from El to HVS and Devil’s Spine HS to VS (both in the Devil’s Slide area). Peimets of Delirium and Indy 500 go down from E2 to El. Banana Crack and Twelve Bore go up from S to VS. If I have one disappointment it is that “Holiday in Cambodia” HVS 5a, 4c has not been upgrad­ ed to El despite numerous comments in the new route book in the Tavern. I’ve done it and found it desperate. It is possible to hit the deck on both pitches so beware. The route description says it all: “the top pitch could offer some worrying moments to a ner­ vous leader”.
If you think you will be going to Lundy in the next 10 years buy this excellent book now. It will probably disappear off the shelves quite quickly and I can’t imagine the next issue will be out before the turn of the century.
THE ROYAL NAVY & ROYAL MARINES MOUNTAINEERING CLUB
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Bnan Pancott