Page 20 - 2017 AMA Winter

Author climbing delta
dagger at ShipWreck Cove (Photo: Elie Rees)
The Lattice Training Programme
by Ollie Tor – Owner of Lattice Training
Breath, stay calm, your fine, just relax. There was no relaxing, despite tired forearms beginning to de-pump
and the thumping sound of my heartbeat beginning to slow, my mind was racing with little sign of slowing down. My belayers distant shouts of ‘come on’ faded into the silenced background of all good red points. I released the knee bar and followed that all too familiar foot sequence that had baffled me months earlier. Side pull, twist, reach, got it! I haven’t been here before, despite the moves being ingrained into my inner most thoughts the feeling of that slopey edge after 20 other moves felt somehow unfamiliar. Breath, weight the foot, come on you can trust it, rock over, reach for the jug and clip...
Regardless of any journey we take in climbing, whether it is your first trad lead, a local competition or the red point of you life there are always two parts to the story. The first part is the mental game, which is an undeniably huge component of climbing performance. Most of us seek to push our mental capacities in climbing through adventure, danger or dedication. As we become more invested into the process of pushing ourselves, the physical demands of climbing tend to play a larger role and preparing our bodies to meet these demands can sometimes take us to places we had previously deemed impossible. The paragraph above describes the last few moments of a 6 month process in which a climber who trained with us over the course of one winter season completed his dream sport route.
As a bouldering specialist the climber in the story above had deemed a specific route
18 ARMY MOUNTAINEER
in the peak district an unreachable goal, writing it off as far too long and sustained to be possible for such an unfit individual. In order to understand what it would take to climb such a line, he sought help with Tom and I at Lattice Training. Using our profiling methods we highlighted what area’s of climbing performance he needed to improve in order to reach the required level based on our collected data. Once the relevant information was gathered we created a training intervention which would allow the climber to adapt to meet the demands of the route for the following spring season. As with any individual process in sport there were teething issues, exercises and loads were evaluated and changed on a regular basis but in the end adaptations were made. The climber successfully red-pointed the route in May that year.
Working with people like this to achieve their personal goals is often a complicated process of analysing, implementing, experimenting and evaluating. Each individual will require their own unique formula and method of practice to fit into a busy schedule which often puts climbing performance somewhere around the middle to bottom of life’s priorities. With each process we see moments of victory and learning, but it’s something myself and the guys at Lattice can’t get enough of.
The Lattice team and how we started
Lattice Training is a company which aims to help climbers improve their personal performance as well as increase the scientific knowledge of physiology within the sport. The Lattice team is a group of highly motivated individuals who were
brought together through a passion for their own climbing and it all began in a far from normal back garden in Sheffield.
Tom Randall the creator and crack master. Tom built the first Lattice Board in 2009 using a very questionable structure in his back garden. The original motivation behind this board was based around his work with the GB junior team, who were at the time, training under his command. As an obsessed trainer and coach himself he decided to not only read about profiling and sport science methods being used in other ‘well-funded’ sports but create something specific to his needs and those of the climbers he worked with on the team. After periods of trial and error the Lattice Board was built and testing protocols designed, allowing each user to see if their physical attributes had improved regardless of the success during the competition season.
Ollie Torr, a partner in crime. Several years into Tom’s development of his new system we started working together whilst I was coaching at The Climbing Station in Loughborough. Our initial friendship was catalysed by a strange circumstance in which I was able to reach maximal scores on one of his testing protocols whilst in an extremely drunken state. I was fresh out of a degree in Sport science and had continued my love of training since retiring early from a junior career in gymnastics. As we got to know each other more through work and training, Tom realised that I had already began my own journey into profiling and training climbers. With conversations becoming ever more technical, science based and down right geeky Tom asked me to team up and create a combined