Page 25 - RAFMA Winter 2003

Another more viable option is to start on single pitch routes on the south face before moving round to West Crack once the crowds have abated after lunch. Set close by on the West Face is another top route - CrescentArch,unlikeWestCrockallofitspitchesaregradedat5.9and are very sustained, it presents a worthy challenge in the 'Testosterone Stake'
Stately Pleasure Dome
More centrally placed in the park, predominately south facing, close to the road and at a significantly lower altitude, The Stately Pleasure is the dome to head for early in the day or when the wind picks up. Nearly all the routes on this dome finished at its summit and gave us our first views of Half Dome and the main valley basin. Despite its lowly grade G re a t W hite Book (5. 6) provided the stiffest challenge on the dome, succumbing eventually to a great deal of body jamming, squirming and cursing from Vennie. South Crack (55. 7) and West Country (5. 7) provided fine, open exposed climbs to rival West Crock, though the run outatthetopofWestCountryisveryuncharacteristicoftherestofthe route.
Yosemite Main Valley
Five Open Books
Situated very close to Lower Yosemite Falls, this two-tier buttress is easily identified from the road by its five open book corners. Despite its name it satisfies a great variety of styles of climbing, not just corner climbing. S e llo g in e lla (5 .8 ) also provides some wicked exposure on the final pitch, which is just as well as the alternative start is not that memorable, unless you revel in vertical landscape gardening!
Sunnyside Bench
This buttress is located on the other side of the Lower Falls, very close to the tourist trail. All the routes climbed here included Lem on (5 .9 ), a classic Yosemite jamming crack a bit like one of our own grit routes, but longer and significantly more harmful to the skin. Sunnyside is an ideal place to go for a late afternoons climbing on the way back to Camp 4, just make sure your earlier climbing hasn't been to strenuous as these are very testing lines!
Manure Pile Buttress
Despite it's less than appealing name Manure Pile is an excellent buttress and does not smell, unless the rangers are setting forest firesl Home to single pitch bolted sport routes and six pitch classics, it is justifiably very popular, consequently you need to be prepared to queue for routes here. As a further word of warning do not under estimate the grades here, in particulartheboltedlineofJumpForJoy(5.9)andGod's Creotion(5.9), onothercragstheywoulddefinitelyearn5.10status.Nutcracker(5.8)is the crags classic line, starting at the base of a curving corner and finishing on the top of the buttress. Despite what the guidebook says, ifyouareintendingtoattemptAfter Six (5.6) don'tjustclimbthe
first pitch, complete the route and enjoy the easier climbing and superior views above.
El Cap -South West Face
No trip to Yosemite would be complete without at least trying to climb one route on El Cap, trying being the appropriate word in
this case. Both parties that
attempted this route failed, one due to rain and the other due to the