Page 6 - RAFMA Winter 2003

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I was going to commit myself. After messing around for what seemed mony minutes, but was probably several seconds in actuality, I was going
to simultaneously pull-up with both hands and hook my left heel on a high ledge - goodness knows what my right leg was going to do while all this happened! This interesting move was with one piece of gear in, which probably, at best, would stop me rolling down a grassy slope after hitting the ground - but it mode me feel an awful lot better. At this stage, I wos only 3 feet off the ground. The annoying thing was that I had chosen B the (starred) route - the description included a somewhat underplayed, 'a
difficult, just to be vaguely competent and reach the conservative standard at which I was climbing previously (clue: my Classic Rock book is well thumbed!) Unfortunately, I had omitted to take into account the grim British weather in 2002. On the plus side, however, I had a secret weapon in my armoury, the enthusiastic Ade Harris, who hod most generously undertaken to assist me in my quest.
The year started badly at the RAFMA Timberlodge meet. A wet and cold session seconding on Middlefell Buttress was followed by a quick route (seconding again) on Scout Crag - the mother of all access debates with an irate former halted further activity on the crag. The weather got worse and the O D G received a visitation. Sunday was a washout. The RAFMA rock meet in Langdale should have hit the spot and in many ways it did. This time, the Saturday was a washout but on Sunday we went to the far end of Raven and attacked Bumble Arrete (D**) 3 times, with me leading finally and placing protection. To consolidate, I then led Middlefell, with only a minor 'faff' on the bulging wall pitch.
The year was running away and I had yet to achieve my aim. I saw in High a feature on Birchen, with its 'plethora of excellent low grade routes'. However, I failed to note the next sentence, which focused on polished holds, under-graded routes and difficult starts (giving rise to VD 4c!) Anyway, I fixed up a weekend's gritstone climbing with Ade and Liz joined us to complete the party.
Saturday was damp and we were all, rather embarrassingly, somewhat the worse for doing our bit to address the over-flowing European wine lake the night before. After an unsuccessful foray involving an off-width crack and a damp lichen-covered (lack of) friction hold, I led Handy Crack (VD) and followed Ade up Visitors Only (HS* 4a). Afterwards, I led an easy romp up All Aboard (Mod) and we went to Lawrencefield, where Ade and Liz climbed a damp Three Tree Climb (HS*** 4b); I played my joker at this stage, owing to some ineffective Asprin. Sunday was the big day. We were on the crag at Birchen before 9 o'clock, with clear heads and blue skies. I was on a mission After leading the way up Trafalgar Crack (VD** 4A), I went on to lead another 6 V Diffs, before collapsing in the sun in the early afternoon, following o profusion of nightmare starts and very off-width cracks. Ade's advice and encouragement were great and Liz's patience was to be commended.
Well, I just about achieved my climbing aim in 2002. I am most grateful to Ade for his support- a bottle is on the way. Turning to 2003, Ade, I have a cunning plan ...
The ) jthor Droving to
himself, once again, the ... value of friends when M * ^ "
session, found to my surprise that I was now on the ledge. Liz Rowland, in her partially supportive manner, lA exclaimed, 'interesting, well OK, vaguely impressive, not sure I want to follow that'. The rest of the route passed in a blur and Liz and Ade Harris eventually joined me on top. By now, you may be wondering what manner of challenging grade I was climbing. To bring matters down to earth, it was a humble VD but it represented the finish of a year-long struggle with the weather and a welcome back to the sharp end of the rope - I wos leading again after a very extended period.
It did not seem to be an unrealistic challenge for 2002: to be lead climbing by the end of the year, although this was after a 2 5 - y e a r sabbatical. My sights were set on
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steep crack which is difficult to enter'. Difficult would not be my choice of k adjective, something a little stronger being nearer the mark; I thought the gritstone route would ^ be a good finishing piece for our time at Birchen. Well, off I went _ and, after a major grunting
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