Page 7 - 2000 AMA Summer

West Falkland. Tower Rocks at Dawn.
Rock Climbing in the Falkland Islands
An updatefor 2000. By Lt Felix Hearn RLC
T here has been an increased amount of climbing activity in the Falkland Islands. It may be unfair to compare the crags with those found in England or Wales, but the Islands do hold a variety of coastal and inland climbing opportunities. Bouldering is prolific, and quality crags requiring the use of traditional climbing aids are available, but harder
to access.
The austral summer there (our winter), despite the commonly associated winds, hosts the prime climbing season. Crags in the lee of the wind and facing the sun can often be chosen, but often only with local knowledge and limited choice. The rock itself is mainly quartzite but changing to a more sandstone texture on the West Side of the islands. The areas outlined
below do not form a comprehensive list, just those areas visited recently.
West Falkland.
The best area is Tower Rocks (Grid 156736) 8km north north west of Shag Cove. Situated
within a naval bombardment area, this mountain top bastion is safe from wandering locals but subject to direct artillery hits! With access solved by helicopter 'down-time' superb multi-pitch routes can be followed, many of starred quality. Routes include: Shell Shock ** S 35m, Shrapnel Arete** VS 4b 50m, and Illuminating HVS 5a 50m. Generally the rock quality and
protection is excellent.
Further to the north is the collection of crags known as Turkey Rocks (Grid 093923). Situated 10 miles east of Hill Cove and 2 miles north of Warrah House, these crags can be accessed by vehicle. Many quality routes can be found here, only a shade lower in quality when compared to Tower Rocks.
The bays and zawns south of Mount Alice offer a mediocre selection of routes often on poorer quality rock, heavily weathered by the fact it is a headland. Cape Meredith is still worth a visit if in the vicinity.
East Falkland.
The east-west Wickham Heights mountain range contains nearly all the recorded areas to date. Table Rocks 2km southeast of Mt. Usborne boasts a superb miniature south facing buttress with seven single pitch routes of S to HVS standard.
Closer to Mount Pleasant is
Bluff Cove crag lying 75m north
of the Stanley road and
opposite the Bluff Cove
settlement. It faces south and
comprises of a compact
quartzite crag 9-12m high. It Only a selection of the known
Felix Hearn on King Hussein HVS 5a, Blufl Cove Crag, East Falkland
actually forms the lower slopes of the hills between Smoke Mountain and Mt Challenger. The rock is generally sound, though a crust like lichen can make progress a little difficult on the slabs.
worthwhile and main crags have been indicated in this update. It must be stated that all land is privately owned and requires the landowners permission. On the weather ‘front’ the climbing is best during January to April when the wind abates slightly and anti-cyclonic pressure systems
Mt Harriet contains several
classic routes including
Vostock*** VS 4b 45m on its occasionally pass overhead
main slab.
More serious crags of note can be found southwest of Estancia House and also on Mt Tumbledown.
Terry Moore on Sea Cliffs, Cape Meredith.
creating the still, warm peaceful days ideally suited to rock climbing.
For further details contact: felix-hearn@excite.com
Armv Mo11utaineer