Page 9 - 1996 AMA Spring

ARMY MOUNTAINEER
on the Haute Route
by Ccipt Nicholl
The plan was to tackle the route with the assistance of a guide, Peter Cliff the author of the popular guide book for this ski mountaineering route. We arrived in Chamonix after an atrocious spell of bad weather ended and blue skies appeared over the Aiguilles. Fortune favoured our programme as we were able to enjoy a stable period of 8 straight, clear days. Weather conditions were crucial to the success of our venture.
Two training days had been built into the plan which took place on the Grands Montets. This period exposed some home truths exposing certain individuals to accept that their ski-ing standards were lower than they had believed. One member was destined not to start with another 2 under no illusions that they would have to work hard, very hard.
We caught the first cable car of the day and began the route by descending the Argentiere Glacier in difficult icy conditions. These conditions took their toll on the weaker members slowing down the party as other, faster parties overtook us. By the time we reached the glacier we were faced with a stark but obvious choice. We could abandon the route and opt for something less demand­ ing or, and it was a big or, send down the slower members and con­ tinue with a nucleus of three. There was never really any doubt about the outcome and it was made by the 2 slower members. With a heavy heart we watched as they descended back to Chamonix whilst we fitted skins and harnesses and ascended the Col du Chardonnet.
It was a long hot climb and an equally long hot day before we reached the sanctuary of the Trient Hut. Rehydrated and rested we silently reflected on the next days events. An early night with an early Alpine start to the next day we faced a relatively short dis­ tance for the descent into Champex. Excellent conditions were again present requiring frequent and liberal applications of sun block. Three hours later we had reached the roadside and were enjoying a huge slice ofstrawberry cake, sheer hell!Our overnight stop was in a Swiss hamlet called Bourg St Pierre, a delightfiuly quaint and scenic stopping place, not that we had a great deal of time to enjoy our surroundings as we took full advantage of the good weather with an extra early start for day three. This is a straight forward 6 hour climb to the Valsoray Hut, starting on foot before dolming ski’s to complete the second half. Stunning scenery unfolded as we gained height and the last leg was a steep section that required good edging. By now we had established a rhythm that was working well, teamwork was also second nature.
Day four began with a steep climb to the Plateau du Coulior in crampons and ice axe. However the snow cover was well consoli­ dated and provided firm going despite the degree of exposure. Good conditions contributed to good progress. The descent to the Chanrion Hut was completed in superb snow with spectacular off piste ski-ing. The Chanrion Hut boasted an interior toilet which was well received and well used. Sadly the Guardian lacked any welcoming features refusing to serve a meal on our arrival. AB bis­ cuits were a poor alternative . The penultimate day offered a choice of routes to the Vignettes Hut and as the mist closed in we had to settle for the long monotonous grind up the Otemma Glacier. Little can be said to alleviate the tedium of a featureless leg except that the sight of the Vignettes hut was extremely welcome.
The Vignetttes Hut is sited on a truly spectacular spot, clinging to a granite outcrop againsl a panoramic backdrop. It was also the busiest hut with an international client base jostling for space and creating a lot of noise in the process. At four in the morning we reassembled in darkness for breakfast, and after a 30 minute wait we cut our losses and headed off without food or drink. It was important to make good use of the time and we could improvise breakfast on the move, it was galling to have paid for such an appalling service.
The last day was also to be our longest day, full use of available time had to be made. Visibility wasn’t a problem but the clouds threatened with an ominous black presence. Trailing in our awake was an extended line of black dots indicating other parties who had sat it out in the forlorn hope that breakfast would appear. It never did. Low cloud prevented the Matterhorn from revealing its impressive outline denying any photo opportunities. Snow ran out about 5 miles from the Furi lift forcing us to reluctantly attach skis to packs for the walk. Before we descended into Zermatt we stopped at a convenient hostelry and forced ourselves to enjoy a couple of celebratory beers.
Fatigued but content we relished the creature comforts of the Banhof Hotel, clean sheets and hot water, luxury. We rounded off the trip with a days ski-ing under the Matterhorn before driving back to Chamomonix. . Lady Luck had been extremely kind by allowing good weather to prevail throughout the attempt, torren­ tial rain greeted us on our return to France.
The ideal outcome would have been for all 6 members to complete the route but success with 3 was preferable to none. The Haute Route is worthwhile and enjoyable wllilst representing a consider­ able challenge. It is not cheap, hut costs ensure that you will pay about £30 per head for the privilege of a nights stay with meals. Breakfast is a lottery.
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