Page 15 - 2012 AMA Summer

Sgt (SI) ‘Vic’ Reeve RAPTC approaching the Great Roof. The Nose El Captain
heat was being compromised by a potential thunder storm. As SSgt Hargreaves finished the last pitch the heavens opened.
The walk off the Nose is renowned for being long and extremely dangerous. The falling rain made the walk off even more challeng- ing. Not only were the rocks steep and slippery but the haul bag had not been backed properly and there was a strong smell of human excrement leaking out. After the four hour walk off Sgt Reeves and SSgt Hargreaves returned to Camp 4, only to find an empty pitch as the Team’s permit has expired. Luckily Capt Boocock was there in the transport to take them back to the new camp site.
Back at the camp site the rest of the team were eagerly awaiting Sgt Reeves and SSgt Hargreaves return. When Sgt Reeves and SSgt Hargreaves returned to the camp site the stories of the climb were eagerly discussed amongst the team. Both climbers had lost a significant amount of body weight and they were looking forward to a well deserved pizza.
Whilst the assault on the Nose was happening the remaining mem- bers of the team were climbing some of the famous free climbs in the Valley. Capt Best and SSgt Asher climbed over 20 multiptich routes raging from of 5.7 to some challenging 5.10. The highlight of free climbing marathon was seeing Capt Best try and overcome his fear of chimney climbing. Due to the small dimension of one chimney Capt Best found himself completely stuck and unable to move. After a lot of cursing from Capt Best and hysterical laughter from SSgt Asher, Capt Best finally reached the belay.
Capt Boocock and Sgt Mackenzie were busy preparing themselves to attempt to climb The South Face of Washington’s Column. This route was chosen so that Sgt Mackenzie could practice her newly acquired aid climbing skills. Following the successful ascent of this route in 2010 Capt Boocock decided that this would be a good introduction in to big wall climbing for Sgt Mackenzie. The day before the climb was spent organising the haul bag and walking in the water supply.
Due to the popularity of the climb an early start is essential to get in front of slower parties. Capt Boocock and Sgt Mackenzie started the walk in at 0500. Capt Boocock had set a goal of reaching the first bivvy which is commonly known as Dinner Ledge before last light. As predicted there were several inexperienced climbing par- ties who were holding up the climbing. The first night on Dinner Ledge was shared with 3 other climbing parties. After a good night’s sleep Sgt Mackenzie was ready to climb the overhanging Kor Roof.
After successfully negotiating the roof, a further two pitches were climbed. However, because the were not maintaining the required speed and this was having an adverse impact on following climb- ers, Capt Boocock made the decision to return to Dinner Ledge and abort the climb.
After the success of Apostle Tiger 1 in 2010 it was inevitable that there was going to be a follow up expedition. Big wall climbing is a serious activity where knowledge, equipment and training are funda- mental requirements. The experience and knowledge that has been gained on both expeditions will hopefully be utilised in future expedi- tions to the Valley. Both expeditions have been a huge success and an amazing experience for all personnel that have been involved.
Expeditions of this magnitude do not happen on there own. A spe- cial vote of thanks has to be passed to Capt (MAA) ‘George’ Best and Capt (MAA) ‘Dave’ Boocock. Without their motivation and desire to climb the aims of the expeditions would not have been achieved. The team would also like to thank the RAPTC for the funding that was allocated for both expeditions.
The Team at Glacier Point Yosemite Valley:
SSgt (SSI) Asher RAPTC
SSgt (SSI) Hargreaves RAPTC Sgt (SI) Reeves RAPTC
Capt (MAA) Best RAPTC Sgt (SI) Mackenzie RAPTC Capt (MAA) Boocock RAPTC
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