Page 11 - AMA Winter 2023/24

HOT TOPICS ONLINE MOUNTAIN TRAINING
With effect 2 January 2024, Mountain Training will introduce new Quality Day definitions for its three entry level schemes: Quality Lowland Day, Quality Hill Day and Quality Mountain Day. Motivated by a desire to remove ambiguity in its current definitions, the board will not fundamentally change the qualifying criteria, rather moving from a definition framed by ‘usually some or all of these criteria would be fulfilled’ to one where ‘all the following criteria should be fulfilled.’ The use of the word ‘should’ within the new definition still allows for some flexibility in fulfilling the qualifying criteria but also suggests that the criteria should be met in full. Readers can access the full definitions and changes online at https://www.mountain-training.org/ latest-news/quality-day-definitions-update.
MOUNTAINEERING SCOTLAND
In June 2023, Mountaineering Scotland, the John Muir Trust and the Knoydart Foundation published a statement of concern in relation to the planned delivery of the Shared Rural Network programme; an initiative to bring mobile broadband to rural communities across Scotland and the wider UK. In writing to the UK Government, this coalition of outdoors activists argue that the current approach is hap-hazard and costly, with the planned laydown resulting in an excess of underused masts in communities where additional infrastructure is not required. Although supporting the provision of broadband to rural communities, they would like to see a more considered and planned approach to mast siting, especially across Scotland’s mountain regions, such that those rural communities in genuine need of improved connectivity can benefit.
BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING COUNCIL
The BMC Technical Committee has released an informative blog on the importance of checking your camming devices for serviceability. The blog provides useful guidance on what to look for when inspecting devices, from serious damage to vulnerabilities brought on by general wear and tear. Broken stems, frayed cables, and worn cam lobes and slings are all covered – a must read for all trad climbers. Visit https://www. thebmc.co.uk/have-you-checked-your-camming-devices-recently
SNOWDONIA NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY
In September 2023, following a six-year consultation, Snowdonia NPA announced the release of their 2035 strategic plan for sustainable tourism in Gwynedd and Eryri. Working to three principles, the joint strategy aims to: celebrate, respect and protect the regions’ communities, language, culture and heritage; maintain and respect the natural environment; and ensure that local communities benefit as a result of tourism.
UK CLIMBING
UK climbing reported in May 2022, the successful first ascent of Jugal Spire North Face (Dorje Lhakpa II, 6563m) via a 1200m route called The Phantom Line (ED+) by British duo Paul Ramsden and Tim Miller. This feat was later earned them a Piolets d’Or award (golden ice axes) in October last year alongside Canadians Alix Berg and Quentin Roberts for their first ascent of the south-southeast spur of Jirishanca (Cordillera Huayhuash via Reino Hongo), and trio Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucède and Jérôme Sullivan of France for their new route up the south face and upper west ridge of Pumari Chhish East (Hispar Muztagh via The Crystal Ship.
ARMY MOUNTAINEER / 11
Manaslu by moonlight (Mizzick, Adobe Stock)
When your body is suddenly switched off from its oxygen supply, it could be game over quickly. If someone from sea level was dropped onto the summit of Everest, they would last less than half an hour without oxygen before death. A similar thing happens when you lose your supple- mentary supply. We were lucky this time. After summiting Dhaulagiri successfully, we got back to Kathmandu the same day by helicopter and celebrated our double summit success in one season. It was then time to head back to the UK, to normality, for a little while. In 2022 I summited four 8000m peaks in 27 days in the spring season (Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu and Annapurna) as well as three 8000m peaks in Pakistan in Autumn (K2, Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat) and attempted Manaslu true summit twice as well as Cho Oyu from the Nepal side (unclimbed since 1970s) in winter. It was an intense yet incredibly successful and epic year of adventure for me and hopefully many more to come, but not as jam packed!