Page 14 - AMA Winter 2023/24

EXPEDITIONNEWS
horses pass – it was certainly something to behold.
According to Icelandic Review, 75,000 to 100,000 people hike the Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trails every year and in 2012, National Geographic listed it as one of the twenty best trails in the world, considered the best for vulcanists and hikers who want to see Icelandic wilderness.
Along the route we were lucky to pass near the Eyjafjallajökull volcano that erupted in spring 2010, bringing air traffic across the Atlantic to a halt. The first eruption occurred on Fimmvörðuháls Pass, which is a high point between Eyjafjallajökull and the larger Mýrdalsjökull ice cap. The ensuing eruption covered the trail in volcanic rocks, which is just a small part of what makes this route so magical. However, as we navigated around the volcano, we could explore and climb the new twin craters of Magni and Móði. These were named after the sons of Thor, the hammer-wielding thunder god – the views were breathtaking! After hiking through the lava fields which, as I recall, had ‘sideways rain and howling winds,’ we descended into Thórsmörk (literally ‘ Thor ’s wood’), where vegetation was visible again.
Parts of the trip made me think of the Grand Canyon due to the immense ‘V’ shaped valleys that had formed over the centuries; there is an amazing jux- taposition between moonscape scarred landscapes, lava fields and luscious almost Alpine Mountain ranges like at Básar. Contrasted with glaciers on the horizon, where the ancient blue ice shimmers, the translucent hue reminds me that, without global warming, this would not have been
Terrain resembling the Grand Canyon
revealed to the eye in the past. The final walk from Fimmvörðuháls to Skógar runs along a ravine filled with waterfall after waterfall and ending in the massive 200- foot-high cascade of Skógafoss.
Throughout the trip, the importance of teamwork was reinforced and something that glued our group of individuals together. Yes, there were momentary frus- trations from time to time, because of pace, differences of opinion or behaviours, but we bonded well and looked out for each other throughout the trip. I was especially impressed by the selflessness of moun- taineers in Iceland. On our penultimate day, we hiked just under 20km, so the night before most of us decided to reduce excess weight by donating spare rations, and gas cans to ‘share boxes’ at the site. I had never come across this type of system when hiking in the UK, but I loved the idea!
Key learnings for myself included being prepared for sudden changes in weather on mountainous terrain. The weather can be unpredictable, even in summer. Be prepared for rapid changes in conditions including rain, high winds and poor visibility. In terms of packing, ensure you have a comfortable rucksack of at least 70 litres capacity and enough provisions to sustain yourself; especially water, a bivvy bag and food. Tents should be sturdy and lightweight. Divide the weight amongst your colleagues and pack a warm sleeping bag.
As per the Countryside Code, follow the ‘leave no trace’ principle, stay on designated trails, and be mindful of the fragile ecosystems in the area. Always inform someone about your plans, carry
essential safety gear, and be cautious when hiking near geothermal areas or crossing rivers. When navigating river crossings, remember the ‘tripod system’ to stabilise yourself and keep water shoes, towel, and walking poles accessible. It was interesting to observe other hikers who were not part of our team that had not prepared for the crossings. Although most of these were accompanied by mountain leaders or tour guides, they looked precarious and very vulnerable at times.
Maintain good health, clean water, wash hands and body regularly, keep sanitary and good foot health, changing socks using padding for blisters.
Navigation skills were especially important on the trip, such as reading and learning to interpret local topographic mapping to include terrain, elevation, landmarks, and contour lines. Referring to a legend and the ability to explain the symbols and colours used on the map, and paying attention to scale, to establish map distances compared
14 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER
THE LAUGAVEGUR TRAIL
Linking Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk, the Laugavegur trail weaves its way through Iceland’s varied landscape of vibrant woodland, rhyolite mountains, obsidian lava, hot springs and crys- tal-clear lakes, and is described by National Geographic as one of the most beautiful trails in the world.
The seasonal nature of the trail means that it is not accessible all year round as snow in the Winter months leads to road closures, and during the peak season, the route operates in one direction only, from Landmannalaugar south to Þórsmörk.
The 55km trail can take 3-4 days at a steady pace with the occasional river crossing and hikers are free to choose between official camping grounds or the many huts that line the route (noting that wild camping is not permitted).
Source: https://www.fi.is