Page 21 - 2003 AMA Summer

it did not allow the use of any of our traditional equipment. Local ethics had also prevented the liberal use of bolts. All we needed now was bad weather to really dampen our spirits.
The aim of Exercise
Madonna Tiger was for every member of the team to make an ascent of a multi pitch route on a suitable tower on the Montserrat Mountain, after a period of concentrat­ ed training. A s I sat on the belay ledge on day 9, 1had severe doubts as to whether LCpI Louise Adams and LCpI Fay Hutchinson would reach me. They had to climb 30m up a polished pebble dotted slab at grade 5 (British Very Severe) which I had just wobbled up without display­ ing any style or grace. To my surprise they both arrived, eyes bulging, forearms pumping, brows sweating. They were not impressed at the news that there was only another two pitches to go, both as equally as hard as the previous, both increasing in exposure the higher we travelled. The next pitch steepend yet the tenacity (and fear) of the girls overcame the difficult moves
in what can only be
described as a ‘sea of rock’. The last pitch was to be the real test of nerve. Okay, it was only graded severe but not one piece of protection in a full 50m pitch would make even the boldest climber perspire a little. Sgt Dave Clark and LCpIs Louise Adams, Rob Head and Fay Hutchinson all succeeded in climbing a 3-pitch route up Gora Marinera and then face the horrors of a multi-pitch abseil. Quite an achievement after just 9 days of climbing.
Having survived 3 rather unpleasant storms by day 12 of the expedition and with more bad weather on route, only one climbing day remained. Throughout the entire expedition the more experienced climbers of the team had quashed ambitions to climb Cavall Bernet, the infamous symbol of Catalonian independence (the insolent erect finger), due to a mixture of fear and the pretence of responsibility to the rest of the team. With our departure looming there
was to be no more hiding. Cavall Bernet proudly holds the title of being the most striking feature on the Montserrat Mountain. As we stood beneath our intended route the hope of rain faded. Capt Simon Fyfe climbed the first pitch with only one piece of protection in 40m of climbing. A smile crept across his face as he clipped the bolt at the belay; it disap­ peared as the bolt wobbled
in his hand. Capt Andy Parry led the next and hardest
pitch of the route slowly and confidently without incident.
It was now my turn. Above the belay an incredible
looking corner, snaked skyward for 40m, overhang­ ing gently at the top. It
would have been easy apart from the water oozing from the crack at the back and the old, rusty pegs that I clipped tentatively. I thought of the bargaining in the COs office then was suddenly brought back to reality by the shouts from my now cold and concerned friends beneath, hanging in their harnesses on dubious, wobbly bolts. After one more pitch we each in turn arrived on the summit of Cavall Bernet, to be met by a percaireously perched, con- tempary artistic impression of the Madonna. After grasping the photo opportunity, the
Madonna proved to be a very safe and welcome abseil anchor for the start of our descent.
The expedition did not pass without incident. 3 nights were spent wondering whether the campsite would exist in the morning or would it be swept down the mountain as a result of the unrelenting rain and hail.
And were those snorting noises in the middle of the night really a wild pig? Not forgetting the seventies night in Barcelona that provided a welcome break from the mountain and is a must for any visiting John Travolta. In conclusion Exercise Madonna Tiger proved to be highly successful expedition. The expedition aim of getting every team member up a multi-pitch route on the Montserrat towers was achieved and surpassed.
And no, none of us slept through the daily Sam early morning call from the monks.
Top rope training.
Have you seen
Officer
Magazine
Officerlife is a lifestyle magazine for Officers and Senior NCOs.
It is available free and is in your Mess now.
In it you will find articles of interest and several competitions for great prizes. This issue gives you the chance to win a skiing holiday for four and a Hasselblad camera worth £1700
Look for a copy
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C
ARMY MOUNTAINEER