Page 24 - 2003 AMA Summer

J J M flU J JJJJ J S iM K by SW Mark Bradbury
“Right then I think it's about time we concentrated on the next task which is unfortu­ nately changing the toilet barrel”.
This comment was then met with several worried looks due to the fact it was foul weather at the time and the contents of the said item was close to overflowing.
Such is the etiquette within the huts of the Alpine Club of Canada.
However before anyone could be delegated for the objectionable task a smiling W 02 Vince Barrett appeared in the hut and informed us that he had changed the barrel. He went on to tell us that at times it looked more like a task for ATO than an aspirant mountaineer. “A job well done”.
In July 2002 I led a team of novice mountaineers from 6th Regiment, Royal Military Police based in Northern Ireland into the Canadian Rockies in order to attempt an ascent of Mt Columbia (3747m) under the guise of Exercise Alberta Finn.
Following our arrival
in the Rockies unseasonably bad weather had tried to put a complete damper on the expedition. Fresh snow, whiteout conditions and crevasses deep enough to hide a house in had only added to the sense of antici­ pation.
However having waited patiently as a novice moun­ taineer whilst being subjected to the usual long apprenticeship that so many potential mountain leaders whinge about the time was fast approaching to test all the training and overcome any problems that we would encounter.
The chosen location for training our happy band of mountaineers was the Athabasca glacier, a tongue of ice six kilometres long, which forms part of the Columbia Icefield. What then proceeded was two days of intensive training in the way of the axe and crampons. This was all coupled with the obligatory crevasse rescue demo and practice sessions.
The phrase “Good I think we are about ready to do some mountaineering,” was met with even more foul weather
on the icefield.
r V
Aspirations of a summit attempt on Columbia now began to fade.
Temperatures were falling below zero at the valley base and the prevailing low pressure system looked like it was going to stay put.
With the attempt on Columbia shelved a plan to gain the headwall of the glacier and top out on the lesser imposing summit of Snow Dome was hatched. This plan was put into operation and we set of in good order to attempt the peak. Things were going well until we came upon the debris field of the mountains infamous serac field. It didn’t disappoint as the serac field put on a small show for us reinforcing to all the objective dangers we all faced. A hasty but organised retreat to safe ground heralded the end of any attempt to gain the headwall and we had been beaten. However no time was wasted and top-roped ice climbs completed our foray on the Athabasca glacier.
A day’s rest in Jasper followed before the team set off to attempt the Wapta traverse, a 5-day high level tour incorporating the remote mountain huts that dot the region.
Starting early from Jasper (0400hrs) we arrived at the start point above Peyto Lake, fresh snow had fallen so progress would be deter­ mined on the snow condi­ tions encountered. This was to prove pertinent as the traverse unfolded.
Misty conditions met us as we made our descent towards the lake this was followed later in the day by clear blue skies and brilliant sunshine. We roped up at the glacier and moved steadily towards the first object, the Peyto hut. Arriving first we had the whole hut to ourselves, however this was short lived as other teams of climbers arrived to fill the hut.
The following morning we were met by complete whiteout conditions. Careful navigation and 6 hours later we arrived safely at the Bow hut tired but triumphant.
The location of the hut is fantastic it lies on the edge of the moraine surrounded by peaks and serac’s of gigantic proportions. The hut is the largest on the Wapta and is an ideal base for winter expeditions. A large communal area with kitchen facility and in the middle of this a wood stove which
we employed to not only heat the hut but to dry
—f i
ARMY MOUNTAINEER