Page 32 - 2021 AMA Summer

MISCARTICLE
So, choose an itinerary that takes a gradual approach to Mera Peak, does not cross the Zatwra La in the first few days and has one or two acclimatisation days programmed in. Whilst this might cost a little bit more both in terms of time and money, I can guarantee that it will be worth it.
TWO – PHYSICAL PREPARATION
Climbing to high altitudes is physically demanding – Fact! Whilst there is no correlation between physical fitness and the ability to acclimatise, being physically fit still plays a vital role in any mountain- eering or multi-day trekking expedition. The route into Mera Peak is beautiful but it is also very rugged with plenty of steep ups and downs so it’s important that you prepare physically.
There’s plenty of resources, advice and guidance available that can help you with training plans. Have a look at Uphill Athlete or Mountaineering & Trekking Training for inspiration and ideas.
However you choose to improve your fitness, my recommendation would be that you do as much representative training as possible. Representative training is simply doing in training what you will be doing for real. For an ascent of Mera Peak this means walking carrying a small rucksack
as often as possible before you go. Short walks, long walks, hilly walks, the more the better as this will represent what you will be doing whilst climbing Mera
Start your trip in as good a physical condition as you can, the effort will be well worth it.
THREE – CHOOSE THE RIGHT BOOTS AND CRAMPONS
Anecdotal and observational evidence suggests that on reaching the Mera La far too many people have the wrong boot/ crampon combination and/or don’t have the basic skills required to use them. This is poor planning and preparation and definitely contributes to failure.
The boots that you wear for the trek into Mera are unlikely to be suitable above the Mera La. Trekking in from Lukla a lightweight waterproof trekking boot will be more than adequate so long as they are well broken in and comfortable. Boots of this nature are generally unsuitable for crampons and are certainly not warm enough to be wearing in snowy glaciated terrain above 5000m so you might be surprised that people actually plan on exactly this.
From a personal perspective I strongly recommend a B3 boot for Mera and one
which is rated for 6000m+ along with a well fitted and compatible pair of C3 crampons, after all, you only have one pair of feet and you need to look after them.
FOUR – GOOD ACCLIMATISATION
Acclimatisation is all about appropriate behaviour. As oxygen levels reduce with increasing altitude, your body has to work harder in order to function. This is most noticeable in your breathing rate when at rest. This increased breathing rate is normal and just one of the effects that reduced oxygen levels has on your body
There are a number of things you can do to help the acclimatisation process and avoid AMS. Firstly, you need to slow everything down. The speed you walk at home is not an appropriate speed to walk when ascending to altitude. You need to walk slowly so as to moderate your breathing and keep your heart rate down; if you are sweating, breathing hard and have a racing pulse you are going too fast! This is the most common mistake, especially in young fit males. Slow down.
Drink plenty of water/fluids throughout the day. Dehydration is a natural consequence of exercise, so you need to make sure you replenish the water you are losing. Good hydration is also essential for the acclima- tisation process. As a rule of thumb, you
32 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER