Page 45 - 2021 AMA Summer

DMM SPIRE TECH ICE AXE
RYAN LANG MCI
Why am I reading about an Ice Axe in the Summer edition?
The reason is simple, reading about the new Spire Tech now, means you will have time to order one in plenty of time for the Winter season. If this new axe from DMM appeals to you, then why not get one ordered ASAP!
What is the DMM Spire Tech?
The Spire Tech is a modern, versatile & lightweight snow & ice tool. The bent shaft and machined grips make it suitable for more technical or sustained terrain when walking, mountaineering or ski touring. The refined design and careful material choices result in a 45cm axe that weighs in at only 323g.
FEATURES
- High strength steel alloy pick, adze, and spike for excellent purchase and durability.
- Machined chamfers on both the pick and adze, for efficient penetration of ice and neve.
- Ergonomic pick and bung, for a comfortable grip in piolet mode.
- Strong and light anodised aluminium shaft, for lightweight travel and reliable support.
- Gently curved shaft for excellent swing and penetration as well as clearance for daggering up steep neve.
- A durable spike and bung for ease of penetration in hard and soft snow.
- Large tethering points in the pick
and spike, for ease of clipping and
security.
- Machined grooves for additional
grip, when moving through technical ground.
Why is this different?
DMM have changed their strategy and moved the goalposts. The traditional offering from DMM was a heavyweight axe that would last a lifetime; however, some would say they were so heavy
they would get left
behind in favour
of lighter axes from
other brands such as Petzl. To put it into perspective the DMM Spire Tech is almost half the weight of the DMM Cirque, which is a popular general winter mountaineering axe carried by many.
How are axes rated?
New Axe Tests
The traditional B and T Ratings have been superseded by the new EN Ratings, Type 1, and Type 2.
Both Type 1 & 2 have the same test and strength requirement for the shaft strength test (which best simulates the buried axe/T-Slot technique), so either axe type can be used for belaying from the shaft in a buried axe belay. Where the differences between Type 1 & 2 become more obvious is in the lab tests that try to simulate torquing/ stein pulling and really test the strength of the pick and the pick-shaft interface, with the loads required for Type 2 tools being significantly higher.
So, in summary:
Type 1: Standard walking and alpine mountaineering axes, suitable for ice axe belaying, but not designed for hard modern mixed climbing involving torquing picks etc.
Type 2: Modern leashless tools suitable for ice axe belaying, and also designed for hard modern mixed climbing involving torquing picks etc.
Thus, it is not strictly true that Type 1 = B and Type 2 = T as both tests pass the old T shaft test and Type 2 axes are now being tested for properties that were not previously tested.
ARMY MOUNTAINEER / 45