Page 13 - 2013 AMA Winter

What is your most memorable route?
It’s tricky to pinpoint one! The route that I’m most proud of is The Meltdown. The year before I’d learnt the skills to break a personal barrier on big bang. This put me slowly on the curve, to success. Prior to succeeding everything came together which included going superlight. I went 3⁄4 a stone lighter, I went down to 9 stone to achieve the aim. The meltdown is a tricky route as it takes a long time to get the sequences right.
Pete Robbins suggested The Meltdown was a 9A, as it’s very slip- pery at the top. It was one of those routes that you can fluff forever, it was a fluky ascent. It felt great to do it when I did, I was slightly nervous as the new slate guidebook had been released throw- ing down the gauntlet alongside Johnny Dawes book. I felt the pressure as there are a few professional climbers around. People started making a basecamp down there. I felt I had an advantage as I’d put a few days down there already as I really wanted it.
I wanted to do the Meltdown and Rain shadow, but later decided not to bother with Rain shadow, partly because the weather was poor and it did seep a lot last year and was further away. Meltdown meant a lot more to me personally. I’ve done most of the hard routes on the slate quarries. To get 3⁄4 the way up the Meltdown is harder than the Very big Very small, the next hardest route, then you have the properly hard moves!
Are you working on any new projects?
I have my eyes on a new project. I’m going out to Yosemite in May, with a new route to attempt. That’s all I’m going to say at this moment as I don’t want the yanks to get a sniff of it as it’s on their doorstep and I’m only out there for a month. I’ve studied the guidebook and eyed up a weakness. The first few pitches are the hardest, I’ve figured if you can pick a line around the aid climb, there are no hand holds or foot holds, it will be a case of body bridging all the way up!
Do you have trouble managing the climbing/work balance?
Sometimes! It’s all a case of being strategic. For example going climbing after an ML assessment is very tiring and I won’t climb as well. It might only be two nights out, but power loading the legs for two nights is enough to degrade your performance. I will give a known hard route a go and I’ll be knackered, whereas normally I could give it about 4 good attempts on a red point.
Certain types of work make the balance more difficult. I see my job as active rest, none of the rock climbing courses that I do are above E5. I did a course last week on a performance rock course where I did a couple of E5 routes, however most of the time I wont need to work above HVS. I work perhaps 3⁄4 of the year, I’m quite in the winter so get a bit of downtime.
What was the scariest climbing situation that you’ve been in?
It was when I got rescued from Masters wall. I was out for about four hours, I was absolutely drained for the last half hour and I
literally had nothing left. Every second thought I was dead.
I also remember the solos that I did when I was 16. I was climbing in the lakes, there was an HVS corner I wanted to do called Drayton corner. It was all a bit damp, I got
20ft up and couldn’t continue, I started going left, nearly fell off 4 times on a 4 pitch crag. I looked at where I went years later to try and identify where I nearly fell off, to this day I think the wind must have blown me back on! I was literally soloing at my limit which was E2. I still can’t work out where I went, I was just right of bonsai pipeline top pitch. I knew I was scared, but
nowadays I would probably sit still and not move!
What is your favourite destination?
My favourite destination is the UK as there is lots of trad variety. I also love Spain, the climate, people and crags are amazing. I’ve always had great trips and like the language too!
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 11