Page 23 - 2002 AMA Summer

and Jim agreed to look after Jackie whilst Rob, Brian and myself headed to Cook. Predictably, we arrived in bad weather and had to wait for a day for a helicopter flight up to the Plateau glacier. On arrival the sun came out and afforded us a magnificent view of the mountain. Unbelievably the evening forecast suggested a good weather window in two days time so plans were made, crampons sharpened and the route examined.
Even with a 0030 start the snow remained unconsolidated. After a short detour into the middle of a crevasse field we established ourselves on the route and spent the next five hours teetering around evil looking seracs and monstrous crevasses. Dawn was breaking as we approached the Linda Shelf, calves burning from front pointing we made the base of the summit rocks in time to see the sun creep slowly over the horizon. Rob, hogging the leads, despatched the tricky pitches in record time and 9 hours after starting we stood on the dangerously corniced summit, taking turns to take the ubiquitous summit photos. The descent was interesting with dodgy anchors and substan­ tial rock fall to keep us on our toes. The sur­ rounding glaciers were now despatching rock fall and seracs almost constantly and we literally ran the gauntlet until safely protected by several enormous crevasses we could pause for food and a rest. We reached the hut at 1500 and spent the next two hours rehydrating.
The following day we marked out the ski plane landing site and waited. The plane arrived but the pilot looked worried. A large crevasse had opened up on the glacier and fully loaded, he was unsure that we would make the take off. Suitably unnerved we loaded the plane and strapped ourselves in. Watching the pilot sweat as he went through his pre-flight checks did not calm our nerves, and I swear we were only I rn above the ground when the crevasse flashed beneath us. The pilot decided upon a victory loop, although we were not sure if this was to celebrate our successful ascent or missing the crevasse!
Exercise AORAKI TIGER proved to be a great success, although blighted by appalling weather the Expedition climbed all but one of its objectives. New Zealand however is not an alpine area that should be treated lightly. Long approaches followed by long summit days on objectively dangerous routes in fickle weather are the norm. This said, it offers fantastically challenging mountaineer­ ing in beautiful and often remote settings To top it all, the people are the friendliest you will find welcoming you with open arms even if you haven't washed for ten days and have just scratched their car with your crampons!
Postscript - April 02. Jackie Spong is now well on her way to recovery and Is reported­ ly terrorising shopping malls on her electric wheelchair. Tragically Brian Spivey was very seriously injured on a trip to Mt Kenya shortly afterwards. He Is still seriously ill in hospital in Birmingham. The thoughts of all the expe­ dition are with him and his wife Carol.
Ml Aspiring as seen on a postcard. Despite spending seven days at the foot of the mountain and climbing it we did not once actually see the mountain! The route of ascent was the NW ridge (left skyline)
More traditional waether with heavy overtones of Scotland the ascent of Mt French.
The expedition fights high winds and a white out on
On the way up - Rob Smith leads the final pitch up the summit rocks on Mt Cook.
C AHMY MDUHTAIHIIB 21