Page 6 - 2002 AMA Summer

VOLCANIC VENTURE!
Cotacachi was to provide these conditions but high temperatures and rain removed all but a light dusting of snow and ice from the mountain. This made for interesting conditions and ensured that the JSRCI, Lt Col Martin Oakes and JSMEL(W) Sgt Penny Farthing had their work cut out finding suitable belay anchors during the final 150m of the ascent.
Returning from the north for a rest day in Quito, the party prepared for the move south and the attempt on Chimborazo. It is worth mentioning at this point the quality of equipment and guides available in Ecuador; Equipment; take everything with you - the quality and availability of equipment in Ecuador is limited. Guides; ensure that the English speaking qualified (ASEGIUM registered) guide with whom terms of any contract are agreed, is the guide that arrives to accompany you on any specified venture!
Once shoehorned into our transport we began the journey to Chimborazo, this itself was not without incident and 7 grateful, albeit shaken mountaineers, clambered from the minibus at 4800m, 200m below the Whymper mountain refuge. Conditions at this time were mild and murky, with visibility restricted by cloud cover to approximately 100m.
On arrival at the refuge, it had started to snow heavily but the temperature had not begun to fall. Consternation and conver-
By Capt Peter Brierley REME
Volcanic Venture was a mountaineering expedition to Ecuador, undertaken by the Arms and Service Directorate of REME - HQ DEME(A). Departing on 01 Jan 02 for 3 weeks (Not the ideal outbound flight date, but availability of flights post the Sept 11 incident was somewhat limited!), the intention was for the 7 man party to accli­ matise North of Quito, Ecuador’s capital, before heading south to attempt Chimborazo. At 6310m this is the highest peak in Ecuador and has the distinction of being the point on earth furthest from its centre. (Due to the equatorial bulge!) An ambitious venture for a group of novice
(less 2) mountaineers, which would, due to circumstances beyond our control, prove too much!
The administration involved in getting to Ecuador proved entertaining, with negoti­ ations over the expense and availability of civilian flights and the political clearance for the expedition only being finalised on
18 Dec 01. The cost of flights accounted for half of the available budget, fortunate­ ly it proved possible to exist in Ecuador on the remaining funds. Transport, food and accommodation were all readily available at competitive rates, even when the US $ (The Ecuador economy is linked to and uses US currency) exchange rate dipped as the Euro began life, in-country cost remained affordable.
Acclimatisation went as planned with Fuya Fuya (4279m) and Cotacachi (4937m) falling to the team during the first week. (The latter despite a spectacular thunder­ storm occurring whilst the team clung to a boulder 30m below the summit and the mountain proceeded to disintegrate!) Due to the unseasonably mild weather, the team had to venture to Cayambe (5790m - Ecuador's 3rd highest peak and the highest point through which the equator passes) to find conditions suitable for further practise of snow and ice skills.
Descending past the Ice Step on Cotopaxi (5600m)
Standing below their recent conquest - Cotopaxi 5897m. (L-R: Maj Paul Dean, Maj Alan Ronson, Lt Col Martin Oakes. Sgt Penny Farthing and Capt Peter Brierley.)
4 URMt MOUNTAIHHH )